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Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:16 pm Post subject: Just saved a Suzuki GT 185cc from my mother-in-laws bacement
Just saved a Suzuki GT 185cc from my mother-in-laws bacement and Im looking for some info...
How can I find out:
what is the exact year?
what is the correct oil mixture ration if i dont trust the oil injection ?
what is the exact type of plug and gap?
where can i locate the front brake master cylender,, the one on the bike is completely rotted inside and out..?\
where is a good source for parts in general..?
Joined: May 03, 2010 Posts: 27 Location: Chanhassen
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:27 pm Post subject:
I am not an expert by any means but I do have 3 bikes. Look for the code on the yoke of the bike---meaning right in front of the gas tank where the steering stem comes up. Also, there should be a code on the engine. Start there and then google the number you found with the bike type. Best thing I found to do is to first of all---find out the year and then ask questions or find a Clymer manual to help you out. The clymer will tell you everything you need to know but first you do need the year of the bike. A good source for parts is definitely EBAY.
Joined: Oct 30, 2009 Posts: 536 Location: Parker, CO
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:17 pm Post subject:
You should be able to determine year by matching paint scheme at this website:
http://www.suzukicycles.org/All-Suzuki/all_suzuki_models.html
Also the date of manufacture on the yoke, months 9-12 usually go to the next year. Suzuki also uses a year letter code, not sure where it is on the bike offhand, but K=1973 L=1974 M=1975 A=1976 B=1977 Yours is not a '73 because that year had drum brakes in the front.
As far a pre-mix. Don't disable or run the CCI oil empty. You can use a light ratio 40:1 for initial startup while making sure the injection pump is primed and beginning to move oil through the clear lines. This pump supplies oil to a couple of bearings on the crank as well as the cylinder wall, it must be functional.
Paul Miller Suzuki is also a good parts source as well a e-bay.
Purchase a manual first thing, as it will give you the basic tuneup and trouble shooting guides to get it running again.
My GT185 is a 1973 (first year) and is one of my favorite bikes to ride. Light weight and plenty of snap for around town and up to 60 MPH easliy.
Thanks for the tip ,,
Paul Miller Suzuki has a phone # on there website but it is not a valid #...??
I WILL get a manuak,,
BUT:
If I could get the answer to a couple straight forward questiions I may be able to hear this motor run today,,,.... !!
Bike Idenification [ Gold and While [ GT185 ] with a front disk brake...
1] What is the procedure to prime the oil pump....?
2] The aircleaners are 2 metal round cylenders with rubber on the ends and holes drilled in them,,
They really look like there was some foam over them possibly with some light oil,, [ guessing ]
BUT now there just the metal cones,, can i get some foam from ,, say a dirt bike air filter abnd cover the cones while im trying to find replacements,,,?
[ a source on the air filters would be great ]
3: what would the pre mix in the tank be while im "testing" the pre-mix pump [ that I have no reason to believe works ]
I would like to put one gallon of gas in so how much oil...
PS: I know I am a dumb as@#@SS when it comes to these bikes but they are so bad ass ;;I LOVE IT ::
Joined: Mar 27, 2010 Posts: 116 Location: Robbinsville, NC
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 3:03 am Post subject:
Take a deep breath, slow down and relax! These old bikes are supposed to be fun and not stress you out! Its better to take a little longer and do it right than attempt something a little too fast and regret it later.
In answer to your questions, I'm pretty sure 40:1 is 3-4 ounces of oil to one gallon of gas (4 ounces divided into 128 ounces in a gallon = 32:1 if I've done the math right).
For parts, I like Dillion Brothers (powersportspro.com). They've had almost everything I need and great parts schematics for everything old and funky.
To prime the oil pump, I think the preferred way is to first make sure the oil is getting to the pump by loosening the connection at the pump until you are certain there is no air in the oil line between the tank and pump. After that, start the bike and make oil is moving thru to the bearings by observation of the air bubbles that are sure to be between the oil pump and banjo fittings at the base of the cylinders. The air bubbles should rapidly disappear in all of the oil lines if the pump is working properly. Also hold the oil pump lever completely open while it is idling. This will hasten clearing the lines and the delivery of oil to the crankcase.
I was a little OCD about the oil thing on my T500 when first starting and had squirted a liberal amount of injector oil directly under the pistons through the intake ports while I had the carbs off for cleaning. It probably wasn't necessary but I felt better knowing that oil was on the main bearings. It will smoke more than usual at first and you may foul a plug or two but it was worth it too me for the piece of mind.
CaptCatFish _________________ Old and ugly (but say it ain´t so)
Joined: Dec 26, 2007 Posts: 1215 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject:
Regarding the air cleaners, that bike should have the setup as in the picture. #1 is attached to the frame above #11. I suggest you try to find these parts, either new or used. That bike won't run worth a darn with those pods that some PO stuck on there. BTW, I believe your bike is a '74. Check the manufacture date on the steering neck. Spark plug is NGK brand, # B7HS. Plug gap is .028".
Joined: Oct 02, 2006 Posts: 1946 Location: New Britian, CT
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject:
If anyone want's Paul Miller's number let me know. I live like five minutes from his shop and I can get his phone number. I have heard this tho, that he recently laid off like almost everyone in his shop. He had a staff of like 8 or 9 people. Let me ask around and I will see what is going on.
Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject: AFAIK he had one guy working for him over the last 2-3 years
MR.CHocko wrote:
If anyone want's Paul Miller's number let me know. I live like five minutes from his shop and I can get his phone number. I have heard this tho, that he recently laid off like almost everyone in his shop. He had a staff of like 8 or 9 people. Let me ask around and I will see what is going on.
Wouldn't surprise me if he did lay people off. Damned near impossible to get a return call or info. Good parts, but customer service/responsiveness need work big time.
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