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The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group: Discussion Forums

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group :: View topic - Hot fuse block 75 750F


Hot fuse block 75 750F

 
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tway20
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Joined: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:39 pm    Post subject: Hot fuse block 75 750F Reply with quote

Can someone offer why Im getting blown 15a fuses and the block is melting? Replaced with another block, but it still gets hot after only a few min of idle time.
Thanks, Terry
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tbpmusic
Gear Head
Gear Head


Joined: Feb 15, 2007
Posts: 1357
Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF they are the tubular type fuses - Many times the old Honda fuses are a different size (diameter) than the replacements you can find at an auto parts store.
Check the diameter of the fuse - it may not be getting good, full contact with the fuse holder.

If that checks out ok, you have a short (or partial short) somewhere - the handlebar switches are immediate suspects.

bill
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tbpmusic
Gear Head
Gear Head


Joined: Feb 15, 2007
Posts: 1357
Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit more - the metric fuses are 6mm in diameter.
The ones you can commonly get in the auto parts store are 1/4". which is 6.3 mm.
You have to specifically ask for metric fuses - this again assumes you have the cylindrical fuses, not the tab-type.

bill
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Biquetoast
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Jan 10, 2006
Posts: 158
Location: Green Oak, MI

PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Hot fuse block 75 750F Reply with quote

tway20 wrote:
Can someone offer why Im getting blown 15a fuses and the block is melting? Replaced with another block, but it still gets hot after only a few min of idle time.
Thanks, Terry


You have some bad wiring, my friend.

Wires sometimes get corroded at the ends over the years, and as you probably already realize, sometimes weak spots or shorts develop along their length.

I have found myself, that a quick, easy thing to try is to eliminate the last inch or three of wire if possible at junctions to eliminate old, corroded wire that causes resistance (if there is enough spare wire). Sometimes, you might have to add a small jumper segment.

Other than something like that, I'm afraid you'll have to go chasing the length of the wire looking for signs of failure....

...or just get a complete NOS replacement harness... Wink

_________________
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Winterized
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cbx-shorty
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Jan 29, 2007
Posts: 23
Location: Enschede / The Netherlands

PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I don't want to be smarter than the rest of us, I think Terry has an other problem to deal with.

If a 15 Amp fuse blows, something is consuming at least 180 Watt.
The bad contacts may cause enough heat to melt the fuse block, but I'm sure something else is drawing too much current.
The problem may be pin pointed by disconnecting anything not really needed to run the engine, and see if the fuse stays in.
Re-connecting the disconnected parts one by one, until the fuse blows, will point to the problem.

Good luck,

Cheers,


Joost Cool
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