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The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group: Discussion Forums

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group :: View topic - Break-in procedure after engine rebuild?


Break-in procedure after engine rebuild?

 
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CaptCatFish
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Joined: Mar 27, 2010
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Location: Robbinsville, NC

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:22 am    Post subject: Break-in procedure after engine rebuild? Reply with quote

I need advice on proper break-in procedures for my T500 after a complete engine overhaul. Specifically, I have questions about when to switch over to a synthetic injector oil.

I followed the excellent recommendations of the VJMOG wise ones about the inital use of dino oil in both the injector system as well as a pre-mix. I used a 24:1 pre-mix for the first 2-3 gallons, then lightened up to a 50:1 for the next 2-3 gallons and am now running just dino oil in the injector system with no pre-mix in the tank. I've ridden about 200 miles to this point and kept it under 4K rpms most of the time (but then there are those "senior moments" when I lose control). Spark plug readings are perfect.

So the question is should I continue with dino oil until the 500 mile bench mark recommended as the proper break-in period by my local bike shop or is 200 miles of dino oil use enough at this point to insure proper seating of the new (and very expensive) last oversize pistons and rings? Thanks for your advice.

CaptCatFish

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Bikegeezer
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Joined: Dec 26, 2007
Posts: 1283
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd continue with dino oil indefinitely. IMO, synthetic injector oil isn't necessary and won't provide any benefit. Again IMO, you can't beat Suzuki CCI oil in these engines.

Stu
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CaptCatFish
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Location: Robbinsville, NC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting answer...........I expected everyone to recommend the switch to synthetic asap. I didn't expect a recommendation to continue with the dino oil.

I found a very old auto parts store in nowhere, Ga that has all the Castrol Grand Prix 2-stroke injector oil that I would ever need. All at very reasonable prices. Haven't checked around for Suzuki CCI oil since my direct accessibility to Suzuki dealers is limited.

I really want to do what's best for the engine simply because I'm too lazy to rebuild this motor again and because I've gone on to other things (i.e., Yamaha TT500 flat tracker).

Thanks for your advice. I wonder if I can return that $50 a gallon synthetic stuff I just bought.......... Laughing

CaptCatFish

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Bikegeezer
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaptCatFish wrote:
I found a very old auto parts store in nowhere, Ga that has all the Castrol Grand Prix 2-stroke injector oil that I would ever need. All at very reasonable prices.
Wow. How old is that stuff? Haven't seen it in a long time.
Quote:
Haven't checked around for Suzuki CCI oil since my direct accessibility to Suzuki dealers is limited.
You really do live out in the sticks. Have you tried Madisonville? There's a Suzi dealer there.
Quote:
I really want to do what's best for the engine...
Naturally. That's how they sell these $12 per quart "advanced formula" oils. Most folks prefer to think of themselves as advanced...not retarded. Laughing If you had a highly stressed racing engine, that might need something more "advanced". Marketing head games... Rolling Eyes BTW, CCI Super 2 is a synthetic blend, around $5 per quart.

Stu
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dorT500
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Joined: Jul 10, 2008
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Location: Galveston County, Tx.

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may try seeing if you can get a discounted price on Suzukis Super 2 CCI oil at a Suzuki dealership. I have been to two dealerships that the stuff just sits on the shelf and collects dust. Both places told me they have hundreds of quarts of it and it does not move very much. I get it for $3.75 including tax after the discount was approved by a parts manager or one of the owners. ($4.99 plus tax, as Stu pointed out, is the usual price) and another dealership counter guy (maybe the parts manager...I am not sure) quoted me $2.00 a quart plus tax. He did not even have it on the shelf...he went to the back to get it out of the many dusty cases he had. The second dealership was in a small town I was passing through.
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CaptCatFish
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Joined: Mar 27, 2010
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Location: Robbinsville, NC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent suggestions about finding the CCI oil. I will definitely stop by any Suzuki dealership I pass during my travels in search of big catfish, wild hogs and flattrack practice places.

As always, you guys always come through with relevant and insightful info. Thanks!

CaptCatFish

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johnakay
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Joined: Apr 14, 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as for running in .
just run in the bike as you would with a new one(no spirited riding) for a 100 miles. then check the heads and retightened the nuts/bolts to the torque specs.
then you are as good as run in.
I did and never had problems.
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CaptCatFish
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toptip Johnakay! I'd worried so much about the oil I hadn't thought to recheck torque specs on the upper end.

Its really running well right now. Rode double with the wife for a few miles tonight and other than the increased breaking distance, couldn't tell that much difference in overall performance. I love this bike!

CaptCatFish

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Bikegeezer
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnakay wrote:
as for running in .
just run in the bike as you would with a new one(no spirited riding) for a 100 miles. then check the heads and retightened the nuts/bolts to the torque specs.
then you are as good as run in.
I did and never had problems.
Hi Johnny. Didn't notice you were here on this forum. Welcome.

Stu
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johnakay
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Joined: Apr 14, 2011
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Location: stockton. UK

PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikegeezer wrote:
johnakay wrote:
as for running in .
just run in the bike as you would with a new one(no spirited riding) for a 100 miles. then check the heads and retightened the nuts/bolts to the torque specs.
then you are as good as run in.
I did and never had problems.
Hi Johnny. Didn't notice you were here on this forum. Welcome.

Stu


I'm like a parasite I get every where Wink
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