'75 Suzuki GT185 clutch issue.

joeyd71 · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:28 pm Post subject: '75 Suzuki GT185 clutch issue.

When the bike is in neutral, it is very easy to push. However when it is in gear AND the clutch is engaged, it is very difficult to push. Does my clutch need adjusted or what? Also (and maybe related) around the same time that this started happening, I noticed it being very difficult to downshift into 1st gear or neutral. The best way to describe it is by pushing down on the gear shift and nothing happening, unless I push fairly hard. What do you think the problem could be?

Thanks in advance,
Joe

zjeppe · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:03 pm Post subject:

clutch does not engage due to much free cable play OR...plates sticking due due to cold oil Idea

joeyd71 · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:23 pm Post subject:

horatiocrunch · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 11:56 pm Post subject:

I have experienced this same thing with my 73 GT 250. I was attempting to push start her when it was about 20 degrees outside. The bike was much easier to push clutch in in 2nd rather than 1st.

Rizingson · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:33 pm Post subject:

First off, lets use the right terminology as you're all a$$backwards concerning engaged and disengaged. A clutch connects two shafts so that they may be locked together and spin at the same speed (engaged), partially locked together but spinning at different speeds (slipping), or unlocked and drive shaft spinning only while driven shaft is motionless (disengaged). So when you pull in the clutch lever all the way you have DISENGAGED the clutch. With that being said you should only feel a slight difference in rolling resistance with the bike in neutral opposed to in gear. If the bike is lurching ahead when you drop it into low or you can't hold the rear wheel still with your hand when bike is on the center stand and idleing in low gear you need to decrease the free play in the clutch cable.

rdaystrom · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:31 pm Post subject:

While we are correcting the terminology etc let's look at how the clutch works. The clutch does not separate the drive shaft from the driven (or counter-shaft) shaft. Only neutral does that. In motorcycle engines the two transmission shafts never spin at the same speed. The clutch separates the crankshaft from the drive shaft. The characteristic of a bike being hard to push while in gear and the clutch disengaged is normal. Wet clutches drag a little. Also the clutch lever should only have about 4mm of gap with the "slack" taken up. Too much gap causes drag and no gap will make the clutch slip eventually.

Rizingson · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:21 am Post subject:

Let's leave the discussion about clutches only. The transmission is another component of the bike. Regardless of whether the clutch is located on the transmission, or on the crank or primary or counter shaft of the transmission, dry or wet, NO reduction happens through the clutch. It is simply input and output. Engaged it is a 1:1 ratio, slipping or Disengaged. When a clutch pack is released it can only travel as far as the pressure plate will go until it hits the snap ring. Any extra distance will add no further resistance or drag. If travel is excessive it is corrected with new friction and steel plates or if necessary, a thicker snap ring. Neutral is simply disengagement of gears between the drive an driven shafts of the transmission. Hope this clears things up a bit.