'67 B105P Bearcat 118cc, oil seal?

TajMan · Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 4:52 pm Post subject:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_G_FkLk7-U

Rizingson · Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 5:05 pm Post subject:

Sounds like its running great TajMan! Did you get the oil problems solved to where you believe its Ok now?
Also could you post a picture of the back of the bike showing how the shocks are connected to the long bolt which the rear of the seat fastens to. I may be missing a spacer on mine. And could you let me know for sure if the right rear shock is fastened on the inside of the swing arm, I know the left shock is on the outside. I would greatly appreciate it.
Rizingson

TajMan · Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 12:30 pm Post subject:

Hey, sorry I've been out of town.
Yes I do think I got oil stuff fixed. If the bike sits for a few days then you try to start, it smokes a lot at first, but then it clears up and runs ok again.
Here are some pics

my fuel setup with shut off valve

Now that engine has been run a bit and warmed up / cooled down a few times, I think my float valve is working and no leaking out the overflow tube anymore, or vary rarely if ever. Smile

2,600 miles [especially when driven on the small sprocket] the engine may need a new clutch sooner than later, but still workable for now

Rizingson · Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject:

TajMan, thanks so much for the pics. They show me exactly what I was looking for. It's normal to smoke a little more when cold. Have you tried to locate a petcock yet or are you going to leave it that way? If so I'd put in a filter somewhere in line even if you just cleaned and sealed tank.

TajMan · Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 12:43 am Post subject:

I actually traded the Bearcat for a '76 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 lifted pickup truck tonight!
On the way home I lost a rear wheel on the truck doing 65mph in the rain! Truck's alright though and in front of my house now.
I can post a story later.
haha

Waljax · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:42 pm Post subject:

I'm restoring a 67 B105p that's been sitting for about 20 years. Got good spark and rebuilt the carb. Kicked it over today and it fired a couple times then wouldn't fire anymore. I looked down and black oil was coming out the exhaust joint and running down the engine. Sounds like the same problem some of you have had. I had changed the oil before trying to start it. Drained it, filled the front fill hole till it came out the screw hole. Sounds like you guys filled the rear hole and had better luck. Am I looking at bad seals or is there some trick to filling this thing with oil?
Thanks,
Mike

Rizingson · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 6:26 am Post subject:

Waljax,
Make sure you are not overfilled with oil (very easy to do from the front fill plug). Put your bike up on the center stand and remove the level screw until it stops draining/dripping. Right seal could have dryed up a bit over twenty years, but try to run it awile before jumping into that job if actually needed. Your crankcase may be flooded with oil/fuel now so clean/dry your plug off and see if you get spark/fire again and try to run it through at mid rpms. Also make sure your starter plunger is able to stop the free flow of fuel to the cylinder. After its started make sure your oil injection system is adjusted and working properly, as this bike CANNOT be run on pre-mix alone. Hopefully you will be able to see the oil move thru the tubing to the outer crank bearing. Good luck and keep us posted!

tenorjazz · Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:19 am Post subject:

I'm about to go pick up what looks like a 1967 B105P Bearcat. I have 3 photos of the bike printed on an inkjet printer and haven't seen the bike in the flesh yet. I'm pretty sure it's a 67 Bearcat because it has the dual sprockets in the back and all he other bits look like a Bearcat.

It looks a bit distressed having been stored under a tarp for, I don't know, how many years.

This will be my first attempt at restoring anything so any help you can give me would be appreciated.

I guess my first question is, does anybody have a repair manual for this bike?
Are there any good books or other resources on how to go about restoring a bike?

The dual sprocket really intrigues me, don't think I've ever seen one before. How do you move the chain between the sprockets? What a great way to have an on-road / off-road bike. The weight of this bike and the dual sprocket rear end makes me think that this might be a good bike to try and ride vintage trials, any thoughts there??

Once I get it in hand, I will send pictures.

Rizingson · Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject:

Don't get too excited about the dual sprocket thing. It really isn't as fun as it sounds changing ranges. You end up removing the master link and adding about 10 or so more links with another master link to get enough chain to handle the larger sprocket. With oil and dirt on everything it can get messy. All four Japanese brands began using a dual range transmission beginning in '68 and '69 which allowed range changes to be made with the turn of a lever. Honda and Suzuki in '68 with the CT90 and KT120. Yamaha and Kawasaki in '69 with the L5T but I'm not sure of the kawasaki model.

tenorjazz · Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:30 pm Post subject:

Anyone know where I can get a service manual for this bike????

jason702v · Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:06 pm Post subject:

hey guys i have been restorin a b105p also. i am at the last step of doin the front forks. anyone have any idea of the oil weight or oil level? i cant seenm to find any info anywhere.

tenorjazz · Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:50 pm Post subject:

I just got both the original Owners Manual and the Official Service Manual (Engine Section) for my bike. The service manual is in almost perfect condition. Also got a book called "Glenn's Suzuki One-cylinder repair and tune up guide". The lady I got my bike from was cleaning out some old boxes and found these and a couple of other great books in the bottom of the box.

Anyway to answer your question about the oil, the manual says "... #30 motor oil, about 160 cc (5.4 oz) for each leg". It also says, "The more oil in the fork the stiffer the suspension becomes, while the less oil in the fork the softer the suspension becomes. Too little oil, however, causes an abnormal noise when running on bad roads". Not too bad a translation from Japanese Very Happy

It goes on to talk about adjusting the rear shocks and I love the part about "high speeds". These are cool little bikes, but I wonder what is meant by "high speed"?

jason702v · Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:22 pm Post subject:

sweet, thanks for the help i have a service manual from ebay but it doesn't say anything about the forks. ill try to get some pics of mine up in the next few days. tanks again man bike

sanctumbarbosa · Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:24 am Post subject:

It looks as though that in case you are sure that it is transmission oil getting in to the crank chamber and not much injection oil then possibly the tranny oil is coming in at the crankchamber wall where the crankcase halves come together. Somebody had it apart before possibly and did not seal properly

Lint · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:25 am Post subject:

Might as well jump in here too, not to threadjack... Shocked

...but.... I also just picked up a '68 KT120 last week.
Gonna do a rustoration on 'er to start. Good info there on the fork oil.

What weight to use in the trans?
I too am looking for a manual, parts diag. Anyone found one online to download??
Any parts supplier you can recommend? I need speedo glass, tail light lens, point, condenser.
cheers, lint