T-500 carbs-will not idle correctly

dorT500 · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:00 pm Post subject:

Did not read your entire replies. I figure you owe me 53 cents on that first pic download Wink

(expensive semi limited broadband) as opposed to the $8.00 a month I use to pay through someone's wireless router. Just kidding...I think... You are right about people answering questions, posting results in a private message form. As I have said before....some well meaning people may be typing into the wind if the solution has already been answered in a private message. Let me get back to your post here shortly. Wink

MNellis · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:06 pm Post subject:

dorT500 · Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:02 pm Post subject:

"a" (singular) never worked out for me. Laughing

and even so that would probably make it $5.53 to start. :lol

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:11 am Post subject:

Anyway, getting back to the business at hand ........double post ...too late to do anything about it Rolling Eyes

http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/tuneupspecs.htm

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:24 am Post subject:

Bikegeezer · Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:32 am Post subject:

[quote="MNellis"]

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:02 pm Post subject:

Have you had the throttle cable apart yet? It might be in the beginning stage of a fray. Happened to me one time on the road with the T500, just above the knurl nuts on top of one of the carbs. Runaway throttle when that happened. Very slow return to idle at first then that sucker frayed up good while I was parked on the side of the road and lifting the cable by the grip. Could not get a hold of anybody right away and wound up spending around $125.00 for a motorcycle rescue service. Here is a drawing I did awhile back of the original type throttle cable just for the heck of it. The new 'versions' have a plastic splitter tube that do not have a factory crimp to hold that end of the cable jackets cable and be warned if you buy one that the cable jackets can get hung up on the rim of knurled adjuster without you noticing it while you are jostling around with carbs after you install it or where the cable jackets enter the 'new' plastic type cable splitter just under the gas tank.

MNellis · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:21 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the picture. I haven't had the cable off an apart yet but it's a good suggestion and probably inevitable. I've had the dual pull cables apart in the past so I assume this 3 pull style is similar. Are replacement cables available from Suzuki or do I have to get them somewhere else. I've had some good luck with Motion Pro in the past so that might be an option. I've also toy'd with the idea of making my own.

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:01 pm Post subject:

I think I did get the new 'plastic splitter tube' from a local Suzuki dealer...maybe not.... don't really remember. As you have probably noticed there are some metal type throttle cable assemblies on ebay right now. Say they are new and I guess a good look at the handlebar adjusters not showing any rust, nice and shiny might be an indication that they are new. Overall length may be a little different (probably a little longer if different at all) if the part number is not the original (superseded). I am pretty sure the metal tube is not available any longer.

MNellis · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject:

Ii thought I'd keep this thread going since it continues on with Fuel/Float Levels.

My right side carb fuel level was a little high and I kept seeing evidence of excess fuel on the carb and on the top of the case. When I checked the float height I found the float level to be low which would give a high fuel level. Since the right side was mis adjusted, I went ahead and removed the left carb to check the float level even though the fuel level had looked ok. I found the float level to be accurate but when I removed the float and shook it I found it full of liquid. The float probably weighed twice what the other side did. Also, there was evidence that someone soldered the side at some point as seen in this picture.

Since finding a new float would probably be next to impossible, I decided to try and repair this float. I didn't have anything to loose. I drilled a tiny hole in the float to drain the liquid. I then pulled out the soldering gun, flux and some acid core solder and plugged the hole. The repair went simple enough and I submerged the float in water for about 5 minutes to to check for leaks. I didn't see any bubbles and after 5 minutes there was no evidence of liquid inside the float.

Here is the float after my repair. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_l6p2MfMG5BU/S6_1yJfdrsI/AAAAAAAAHy0/BfR5RWnz7-Q/s720/PICT1618.JPG

After reassembly I installed the carb and turned the fuel on only to have it come flowing out the overflow tube. I removed the carb again and rechecked the float level (it was good) and checked the float needle. I also blew some air through the needle seat. After I reinstalled the float blow I filled the float bowl with gas with the carb mounted in the vice and everything was OK. With float level at 27.3mm, I found the fuel level would only go up to about the bottom of the float bowl screw instead of the bottom of the carb body.

During the reassembly process the rusted choke linkage broke so that was irritating. The bike fired right up on the first kick and settled right down to idle. I re-sync'd the carbs and took the bike on a test ride on the highway. The motor seems to run great and with the newly installed stock 33t rear sprocket (replaced the 40t that was on there) it runs great down the highway at 70mph at only about 4500rpm. This is about 1200 rpm less that it ran with the 40t and makes a much smoother, nicer ride.

I'm going to leave the fuel level as it is now even though it seems lower than the pictures that Stu posted of his fuel level.

When the motor is cold and the choke is on the idle settles down quickly after blipping the throttle. When it's warm and the choke is off it is still slow to settle down. Someone mentioned this could be a sign of leaking crank seals so I suppose I'll do the vacuum/pressure test of the crankcase that was posted elsewhere.

Thanks for all your help and if anyone has a good T500 float I'd love to take it off your hands.

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:19 pm Post subject:

A float and what part of the choke linkage do you need (pic)....I will see what I have. Have two spare carbs that had some missing parts, just don't remember what was missing.

Steve Searles · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:24 pm Post subject:

Go richer on your air/idle mixture screws. See if this will make the revs come down and settle in. !/2 turn at a time, both the same.

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:00 pm Post subject:

I am thinking the slow return to idle is some sort of slight momemtary mechanical hangup. Sliders, throttle cable,etc. Idunno

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:11 pm Post subject:

MNellis · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject: