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Joined: Feb 08, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:27 pm Post subject:
If the bike doesn't already have one , you might want to install a cut out switch for the lights to get a better start , then once running power them . _________________ ´82 CB750C+
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:02 pm Post subject:
It MAY
Personally that "63VDC" kinda scares me a bit, as caps generally hold nothing back, and MAY in fact blow the whole system. in fact that 50vdc that i pointed out is a shitload for just getting it to fire over but thats what i ran on my lil bobber.
It really is buyer beware with any kind of mod like this, if youre NOT prepared to rewire a bike by hand OR buy a new harness if and or when the cap fries it, my suggestion is dont do it. With my bobber, i wasnt worried about the wiring, as it was 30 yrs old, and im reasonably good with electrical issues as much as i hate tracking them down. My suggestion is to experiment with a bike that you dont give a flying F--- about before doing it to a cherished relic. (or your gullible buddies bike for that matter) the bobber i did it to was JUNK when i got it, so if i had to replace the wiring harness, well, i had to replace the wiring harness anyway (which i did btw just last month to the tune of 50 on ebay) but the cap wasnt the issue, it was vibration that did it in and age. In that system i used a 27,000 mf/uf 50v cap which was overkill for the bike (running LED turns tail and guages) but well within operating range for the harness.
its not "new" ground we're covering here, just not COMMON ground, this was started in the 70's by chopper builders, and they learned from their mistakes... having to fix harnesses and buying the wrong stuff and trying again and again till they dialed it in. if you KNOW an old chopper builder, he will save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars by listening to him. if youre like "normal" people, prepare to try and fail...
there MAY be a website out there to accurately tell you any pitfalls you may face, there may not be, i have never looked, but you can try that as well.
All i can tell you is that the 27,000 worked in MY application, and that the 56000 SHOULD be ok in a cb360 application but without actually having DONE it, prepare for the worst case, just in case.
Alright, thanks for your help... have a better idea of what I'm up against now. These things don't need to be replaced, or need maintenance, right? That's part of the appeal of not having the damn battery.
Anyway, I will ask around to people who've done it to these types of bikes before getting the capacitor, and on the issues you mentioned i can deal with or fix most of them- harder starting not a problem, might lead to some heavy swearing in the colder months, but okay- if nothing else i can mount it with metal worm-geared clamps- been on a britbike before, know how to deal with dim lights at idle- so not too bad unless i pick the wrong cap and fry the system.
Thought of something... i'm not running blinkers or gauge lights, would that make the 56000 too much? my energy requirements are for the head and tail/stop/plate lights, other than that just the ignition. maybe 27000 would be enough? better less voltage than too much right?
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:46 pm Post subject:
id definitely start with the 27000 and see how it goes. it WILL NOT keep you from dimming at idle, all its really for is if you have a spike in the current draw, say for instance the coils draw an irregular amount on one revolution. it will completely recharge within 15-30 seconds to be ready to use again if needed. with that setup, IF you run NOTHING but LED lights, you would be able to keep your turnsignals. (be sure to put an LED in the brake/tail as well) you will need to put in an electronic turnsignal relay to slow the "crazy blinker" at a cost of about 10 bucks and they will be almost as bright as stock.
again this is the setup i used (gn400 bobber) and the turnsignals even though using a 12v bulb in a 6v system, are BLINDINGLY bright.
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:36 pm Post subject:
http://www.liquidchopperstore.com/m16404.html
thats the exact part i used, when i bought it i paid about 10 less. as far as i would gather, you would need a 12vdc 27,000uf cap. since it doesnt exactly want to give up any secrets as to its "overall" specs, i searched for the batt elim that i posted earlier since that one has specs. (for those that plan on NOT buying a ready made solution)
so... since ONE of them is listed as a 50vdc, and the other states 12 or 6 vdc systems, but they BOTH are listed for bikes, my GUESS is that it really doesnt matter? and this is where the experimentation and risk come in.
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