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Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1598 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:15 pm Post subject:
Lookin pretty good in the light of day. You had mentioned earlier about needing the gravity fed oil supply line from tank to pump. If the banjo ends are both still left.....have you tried just using an appropriately sized clear tubing/ fuel line and clamps? I have seen some people use small stainless steel wire wraps for clamping. Carry on, your doing alright. Careful there mate......that little 'roo' looks like it is about to jump off that deck!
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:26 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
Lookin pretty good in the light of day. You had mentioned earlier about needing the gravity fed oil supply line from tank to pump. If the banjo ends are both still left.....have you tried just using an appropriately sized clear tubing/ fuel line and clamps? I have seen some people use small stainless steel wire wraps for clamping. Carry on, your doing alright. Careful there mate......that little 'roo' looks like it is about to jump off that deck!
You know, just today as I was cleaning up the engine, I thought of the same thing. Both banjo's have just enough of the attached tubing to clamp on some tubing. I think it will work fine.
Don't worry....I just put the frame up there the pictures sake.
One question for you or anyone else. The light switch on the left handle was seized up and I was unable to save it. I was thinking of just running a simple toggle switch mounted in the headlight housing. Question is: can I use a 12v switch on a 6v system, and what kind of switch would I need? SPDT?
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 4:18 pm Post subject:
Okay...so left side frame covers are impossible to find. Instead I bought a used right side cover that looks like it will look perfectly acceptable. It's not like you'll ever see the two sides side by side, and itt doesn't bother me a bit. Only thing I have to so is cut a slit in the side where the bracket slides through, a hole for the key switch, and a new hole for the knob screw.
Have a lot to do in the next week or so as parts come in:
Install the new seat cover on the K10 double seat I bought
Install the key switch and re-install the wiring harness
Put the new piston rings on along with the new base, head, oil pump, exhasut and intake gaskets
Install the new 18mm Mikuni and manifold adapter
Mount motor, centerstand, footbar and new pegs
Run all the new cables.
Make new battery holder bracket
Paint new left side cover
All that will get me 90% done. Then the tuning starts. Yay.
The speedometer has similar info at the bottom like on my B100P. 60 MPH = 2250 RPM!!?? In their dreams. Wonder how they came up with this? At 60 my B100P is screaming and almost if not WFO.
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:08 pm Post subject:
So I got my carb in today, new seat cover and the right side cover I found on ebay. The left side covers for these bikes are impossible to find, so when I found a non oil injected right side cover (no oil tank so it's just a plastic cover) on ebay for $10, I decided to try and use that. The shapes aren't semetrical, but they're close enough I doubt anybody would notice. All I had to to was make a notch in one side and drill a knew hole for the screw knob that holds it in place. I think it looks pretty good.
Oh, and I also made my own ghetto battery bracket since the stocker was missing and I was tired of being nickel and dimed to death on the small parts. Job done!
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 8:14 pm Post subject:
She's rolling once again!
All I'm waiting on now is my seat, and the ignition switch (had to come from the UK). Then I need to buy some fuel line, rig up an oil line that came busted when I bought it, put the harness back in and wire it up. I got the cylinder back on over the piston without breaking any rings this time. If I have time tonight I'll put the motor back in the bike.
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:35 pm Post subject:
So I got my seat all done. Also got the clutch cable and speedo cable installed. Of course when I squeeze the clutch and push/pull the shift lever, nothing happens, so I'll need tolook into that. Anyways, here's what she looks like tonight.
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1598 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:13 pm Post subject:
Well it seems you have been having fun and pretty fast job even for the money saving redo you wanted......but will it run? What exactly is the clutch acting like? Were the clutch rods you received the same length as the old ones? Did you get the the rod that was still inside out? Does the clutch cable have an inline adjuster midway on it?
EDIT: Try rolling it a bit back and forth (easy, don't force anything) while you try to shift it or just hold off until you get the motor running. Plates could probably need a cleaning anyway. _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:54 am Post subject:
Yep, I replaced both rods, even though the inboard one was fine. The bike rolls fine with the lever in and out. I did go ahead and pull the right side cover off and removed all the plates. Everything looked fantastic in there. The oil was really clean, and there appeared to be no wear on anything. I ended up adjusting it a bit more with the adjusting screw, which gave me more engagement on the plates. After I put it all back together, I got down low and used my hand to move the foot lever. I could definitely feel a difference between the "shifts" and when it bottoms out, so I'm pretty sure it's working okay.
What is the shift order? I know it's a 4 speed....but is it just 1 down and 4 up?
Thanks for the help!
edit: I don't have my chain on yet, so I guess rolling it doesn't really tell me anything.
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:50 am Post subject:
More good news, got my carb sealed properly (had to ream out the plastic shim the Mikuni came with) and with the uni pod filter I bought, it was running well enough to take it for a spin. Dang this little thing can rip! It shifts through the gears great, good acceleration, and I had it up to 45 before backing off. Of course I need to get the injection system hooked up and take a look at my plug, but if I need to do any jetting it's going to be minor.
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1598 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 8:52 am Post subject:
I'll be damned You did it. Way to go! But why in the world would you "take it for a spin" without hooking up the oil pump? Did you not say somewhere you had bought a new pump? Maybe not. Anyway, I admire how you moved right along with this 'little feller'. I really would like to use air filter pods on the T500 rather than the original hard to work with (even when new) rubber throat coming off the air box but too much experimenting with jetting, etc. for my tastes. I guess I am an "original look ' kind of guy anyway. I have seen some people go back to the stock setup after trying pods. Hope it works out for you. 'You did good' _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 11:55 am Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
I'll be damned You did it. Way to go! But why in the world would you "take it for a spin" without hooking up the oil pump? Did you not say somewhere you had bought a new pump? Maybe not. Anyway, I admire how you moved right along with this 'little feller'. I really would like to use air filter pods on the T500 rather than the original hard to work with (even when new) rubber throat coming off the air box but too much experimenting with jetting, etc. for my tastes. I guess I am an "original look ' kind of guy anyway. I have seen some people go back to the stock setup after trying pods. Hope it works out for you. 'You did good'
No, I still have the old pump that I'm trying to use. I have some tubing to make a new inlet line with, but the wire I got to use as a clamp was too thick and I couldn't bend it easily enough to make a tight seal. I just wasn't in the mood for yet another trip to the hardware store, so I decided to give it a go. I figure it couldn't hurt too much. Getting the oil pump running is today's order of business. Hitting up the local cycle swap first...who knows what I might be able to find.
As for the pod filter....the oem filter/enclosure fits up inside the frame, so you can't even see it. Same thing with this pod filter.....the carb is so close to the opening in the frame I had to make an extension tube to bridge the gap. It's odd to me how that stock setup was able to pull enough air from such an enclosed space anyways.
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You had mentioned earlier about needing the gravity fed oil supply line from tank to pump. If the banjo ends are both still left.....have you tried just using an appropriately sized clear tubing/ fuel line and clamps? I have seen some people use small stainless steel wire wraps for clamping. Carry on, your doing alright. Careful there mate......that little 'roo' looks like it is about to jump off that deck! 
If I have time tonight I'll put the motor back in the bike.
