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The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group: Discussion Forums

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group :: View topic - electrical bugs


electrical bugs
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
Posts: 87
Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:43 pm    Post subject: electrical bugs Reply with quote

Ok so I decided to take my 360 to get inspected today and it passed no problem, but about a mile down the road it died on me. Now the neutral light will only come on when I put the kill switch in the off position. I have tried checking every single wire but cannot find out what is wrong. When I turn the kill switch from off to run the green light slowly goes out. Anyone know what could be causing this problem rectifier or regulator or something?
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BlueThunder
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Joined: Feb 15, 2007
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Location: Hewlett, Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a wire's insulation has worn away and a short has developed. You will need to look at every place where there is a bend or contact with the frame. I would start with the neutral safety switch and follow the harness.
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guess what I actually found the problem it is the oil that is leaking all over the points. But now I have 2 other problems to address the first is the fact that I lost the bearing that goes inside the headlight switch controls. Anyone know what size that is? And the 2nd is the oil that is leaking in the points looks like it is coming from them rubber plugs when I pulled them out a ton of oil just dripped out. Now when I look at the schematic on bikebandit it shows 2 rubber seals as well, Do these seals just push into place in the same holes that the plugs go into. If I order new seals and plugs will this plug up the leak? I hope I don't have to take the head off again.
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok here is a link, can one of the pro's tell me if the part # 34 should be behind those black plugs next to the points. I pulled them plugs out but there is nothing else behind them, will replacing the plugs seal the leak?

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-cb360g-1974-camshaft-valve-tensioner/o/m9223sch397843
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I now have another problem. Please help me with this if you can. When I turn the bike on the neutral light does not come on anymore, when I turn the headlight switch on the guage lights work but nothing else does, I have no headlights turnsignals nothing. Could it be a problem with the voltage regulator or the rectifier? I can't seem to find a bad ground anywhere? This was all working just the other day. After I unplugged the points everything was fine then the next day I came out and turned the key and this is what is happening.
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hanly2
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I unplugged the headlight and now the neutral light comes on but when I try to turn the turn signals on it goes really dim and the signals don't work. Also tried hooking the headlight up to the battery by it self and couldn't get anything.
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Barchetta
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Location: Toronto Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the voltage of your battery?
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

right now it is at 11.93v I have it hooked up to the battery tender charging. Shouldn't I be able to get the headlight to come on by connecting the positive and negative leads to the battery? Do these headlights really cost $50? Or do they have them at advance auto parts for less?
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I made some progress. I put the old 12ah battery on the bike today and everthing was working again. So it looks like my battery took a shit. The thing is it is only a couple months old. It is a 12v 9ah sla battery it should be plenty to handle this bike. So is there something wrong with my voltage regulator or my radio shack rectifier that would fry the battery?? Can someone tell me how to check these 2 things?
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Bikegeezer
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Joined: Dec 26, 2007
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hanly2 wrote:
OK I made some progress. I put the old 12ah battery on the bike today and everthing was working again. So it looks like my battery took a shit. The thing is it is only a couple months old. It is a 12v 9ah sla battery it should be plenty to handle this bike.
It's not nearly enough to handle that bike. Anytime your rpm is less than 2,000, I'd bet your battery is discharging. And because it's only a 9 amp-hour battery, it'll become useless pretty quick.
Quote:
So is there something wrong with my voltage regulator or my radio shack rectifier that would fry the battery?? Can someone tell me how to check these 2 things?
The battery isn't fried, it's just badly discharged. Either disconnect half of your lights, or use the correct battery.

Stu
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hanly2
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read about other guys that were using 5ah batteries so I went with 9 thinking it was plenty. You don't think it's enough?
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Bikegeezer
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Joined: Dec 26, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hanly2 wrote:
I read about other guys that were using 5ah batteries so I went with 9 thinking it was plenty. You don't think it's enough?
Definitely not. Due to space limitations, most motorcycles have less battery than they need. And if the charging system isn't 100%, even the OEM batteries will suffer. You handicapped yourself right from the get go with an undersized battery. FYI, a 5ah battery wouldn't even crank the engine over for starting. Batteries that size are for kick start only applications with minimal lighting. If you saw someone claim good service from a 5ah battery on a stock CB360, that person is not being truthful, to put it politely.

Stu
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hanly2
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only have a head, and taillight and turn signals and thats it, I also don't use the starter. I took the battery to the auto store and there is definintly something wrong with the battery it will not take a charge and just causes the stores charger to shut down, it must be shorted out or something. I am going to exchange it for a new one but I need to make sure the rectifier and the voltage regulator are working so that I don't fry this one too. Can you tell me how to check them?
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Bikegeezer
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Joined: Dec 26, 2007
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hanly2 wrote:
I only have a head, and taillight and turn signals and thats it, I also don't use the starter. I took the battery to the auto store and there is definintly something wrong with the battery it will not take a charge and just causes the stores charger to shut down, it must be shorted out or something. I am going to exchange it for a new one but I need to make sure the rectifier and the voltage regulator are working so that I don't fry this one too. Can you tell me how to check them?

I believe your problems will return with another undersized battery, but I guess you need to prove that to yourself.

Easiest and quickest way to check those items is just after installing a fresh, hot battery. Hook a voltmeter across the battery terminals and set it to read DC volts. Your charging system begins charging at around 1550 rpm with the lights off - 2100 with the lights on. Hold the engine above 3,000 rpm, and the voltage should eventually rise to at least 14 volts. You should see around 14.8 volts at 5,000 rpm. If you're good so far, set the meter to read AC volts, and take the rpm up to around 3,000. Turn on the high beam and apply the brakes. You should see no more than 1/2 volt AC - less is better. If there's more AC than that, you have a bad diode in the rectifier.

Stu
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hanly2
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Joined: Jun 18, 2008
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Location: Gibbstown, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for understanding, the only way I can really close this issue is by seeing it myself. I will try to run those tests tomorrow.
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