1967 B100p project bike

pj_elia · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 2:30 pm Post subject: 1967 B100p project bike

Hey guys, new to the forum. I recently picked up a 1967 Suzuki B100p. I don't know much about these bikes but have been researching online as much as I can. Its almost all original with around 7000 miles on it. I got off of craigslist locally for cheap. I wasn't looking for another project but I couldn't resist. It was last registered in 1977. I first want to get it running well and then see how far I want to go with restoring it. I'm glad I found you guys. Most of the other cycle forums I've been on don't have many guys into the vintage stuff.

duceolsen · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:07 pm Post subject: b100p

Wow nice find.
I really like the tanks on these old suzukis
looks like its all there too.

Rizingson · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:14 pm Post subject:

Welcome to VJMOG, hope we can help you out. That's a great find you have there, I passed one up about a year ago and haven't come across one since, my bad.
Just remember on Suzuki's with injection, don't disable it (it's required for bearings). But use a light mix (approx 40:1) when you first start it to make sure the pump starts working also.
Good luck! and keep us posted

pj_elia · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 5:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the feedback and the heads up on the oil injection. I had read up on it and realized not to disable it. It actually seems to be working. I cleaned up the carb and it is running rough. Its mostly complete. It even has the aluminum carb covers. It needs and oil tank cap, the rear fender extension/mud guard. Also, I'm not sure if it had turn signals or not. The left controls has a switch and horn button. Its either hi/low headlight or left right, I'm not sure yet. The float bowls were leaking so I brazed them and I could not find a carb rebuild kit so I had to trace the old gasket and make one. It runs for a little and dies out. I'm not sure if the float is setting the fuel level too high or the gas in the tank is dirty. The kid who had it before did some work getting it going before giving up on it. He bought it at an estate sale.

I need exhaust gaskets, clean and derust the tank some more, check the carb floats again.

Rizingson · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 5:57 pm Post subject:

Running for a while and dieing is most likely too low a float setting or fuel starvation due to clogged petcock strainer etc. Remove fuel line at carb and check for full flow (stream) when petcock is turned on. If just a trickle clean up petcock strainer and inlet filter screen, tank as well.
When taking carb apart for float adjustment, remove both jets again and make sure you can physically see light through them. Make sure the light is a round hole. This is sometimes hard to see on the idle jet. If dirty, run a single strand of 18ga copper wire through the jet. Nothing hard that will damage it. Forget a kit, you won't need it if you do your cleaning properly. One last thing, check for air leaks between carb and intake port with starting fluid. Any leaks will cause rough running or possible damage from a lean condition.

pj_elia · Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:36 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the advice. Let me tell you what I have done already. I'll explain in cronological order.

Previous owner did a mild cleaning of tank, added oil to oil tank and a new petcock and ran it for awhile with the start lever pushed to start.

Brought bike home.

- Hard to start, Ran only with lever pushed to start.
- Remove and lightly cleaned carb with spary and compressed air. Found a piece of dirt stuck to the bottom of skinny tube the projects into the bowl.
- Bike started right up and ran well for awhile. Did multiple test rides and adjusted the idle. Ran good except a little too smokey. started up well.
-Bike then became very hard to start latter that day and seemed to flood very quickly and leak gas and oil from the exhaust
-Removed carb and found the pilot jet to be clogged. cleared it with thin wire and did more spray cleaning
-No improvement, only fired when cylinder had ether sprayed in it.
-Bike was flooding and dripping fuel from exhaust just like before.
-Removed carb again. Found float to have a leak. Used solder to braze the cracks.
-used homemade mini soda blaster to clean carb inside and out.
-made bowl gasket because the backend of the inner circle in the front/middle of the bowl had a tare in it.
- Adjusted float level down thinking the little extra lead on the float would raise the fuel level up otherwise.
- No start, not even with ether.
-Next morning carb was leaking - suspecting float fix did not work
-Checked spark -- no good-
- New spark plug and it fired and ran rough.
- Then the plug wire end fell off after repeated spark testing. I stuffed a thin bare wire in and twisted the end back on.
- Bike runs rough still and for awhile before it dies off and becomes hard to start. Then all of the sudden it will take off for a few seconds or a minute before dying at full throttle. Fuel supply is fine as the fuel line is clear and I can see the fuel getting to the carb.
- Carb does not leak after sitting for hours- Maybe float is fine and the fuel level is too low??
- I have not noticed fuel dripping out of exhaust like before but when the bike is not starting, I check the plug and it is a little wet.

Any ideas? Check and raise float? Clean the tank first? Gas look pretty good and I don't use the reserve to avoid sediment. The pilot air mixture screw has some deterioration around the shaft but not much on the tapered part.

That's pretty much everything I have done other than some cosmetic cleaning of parts.

pj_elia · Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:16 pm Post subject:

Just to follow up, I took the carb off again and raised the float. I set it at 25mm as the service manual reccommends, it was at 28-29. The brazing on the floats seems to be holding. There was no fluid in the float. I put and in-line fuel filter as well. Its still not running good. I can get it to fire and rev for a little and then it will die. I will check compression and clean out the tank and add new gas even though the fuel looks and smells fine. The strange this is that we had it running well at one point when I first brought it home and cleaned the carb.

Tango911 · Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:35 pm Post subject:

sweet project

AntMan88 · Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject:

Did you check the filters in the pet cock? They were plugged up in one of my bikes once and it would let enough gas to get through after sitting for a little bit that it would start and run for a minute then die.

pj_elia · Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 12:47 pm Post subject:

Just took the tank off. The carb was getting fuel. I could see the fuel in the clear fuel line but that being said, I did find dirt and rust in the bottom of the tank an on the strainer. Its currently soaking in evaporust. I don't have a lot of it so I periodically move the tank to different positions to get the evaporust to all parts of the tank.

pj_elia · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:32 am Post subject:

Finished cleaning the tank. I ended up using vinegar to get the rest of the rust. It does flash rust instantly after cleaning the vinegar out. Anyway, dried the tank and refilled it. No real improvement. I can get the bike to fire up and rev up for 1-10 seconds at a time before it completely dies out. I may clean the carb one last time now that the tank has been cleaned, but I'm running out of ideas. I broke the kickstarter which had been welded at one point in time. I have one coming in from Thailand. Its costing me have of what I paid for the entire bike. If anybody is a 2-stroke expert, or a early suzuki expert, let me know what else I should check to get this bike running right.

Thanks,

PJ

MR.CHocko · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:14 am Post subject:

Get used to paying more for parts then what you paid for the bike. Parts for a lot of the 60's era Japanese bikes are hard to come by and when you do find the part you are looking be prepared to pay some cash. One thing I will tell you about the two strokes is the seals do have a tendency to dry out and go bad. Also the old oil residue will sometimes harden into this hard rock like substance in the exhaust, preventing proper exhaust flow.

Rizingson · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:22 am Post subject:

I believe you could have destroyed a crank seal, which may have been intact when you first fired it up but now is shredded. Check symtoms I listed in this posting, to see if it applies to your bike.
http://www.vjmog.com/ftopicp-46903-.html#46903

MR.CHocko · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:11 am Post subject:

After reading this thread careful and your post with what you have done already and the syptoms you describe. I am going to have to say this you most likely have a bad crank seal. Saying this because I have seen similiar things happen with 60's two strokes. Sometimes you do get lucky, especially if the oil inside the thing is clean. That is why we usually ask someone when they bring a two stroke into the shop was there oil in the tank? If not did you put oil in the tank? How did you start the bike,etc.?

pj_elia · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:24 pm Post subject:

You might be right about the crank seal. It does drip out a black oil rich sludge from the exhaust connections. Anything specific I should check before taking the motor apart. I ordered a complete gasket set from the same retailer. Should I re-ring it while I'm at? Anything else I should do if I take it apart?