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The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group: Discussion Forums

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group :: View topic - WHY DOES BATTERY KEEP DRAINING ON SUZUKI T500 ?


WHY DOES BATTERY KEEP DRAINING ON SUZUKI T500 ?
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:14 pm    Post subject: WHY DOES BATTERY KEEP DRAINING ON SUZUKI T500 ? Reply with quote

Greetings board members. Here are the symptoms of my problem. Batteries slowly drain down until they are dead. I do not drive the motorcycle much but its started every couple of weeks and I drive two or three miles. Battery would probably drain faster if I drove it more. Battery drains more quickly if the lights and signal lights are used. If the bike is running with the lights or blinkers on and battery goes dead, the bike stops running. But when the lights and blinkers are shut off the motorcycle can be started and driven with dead battery. But if the lights or blinkers are switched back on, the bike dies... I can charge the battery or replace it, bike runs fine, but as I said the battery slowly drains until dead.

I read that a battery that drains may be caused by either a faulty AC generator / alternator / stator -AND/OR - the silicon rectifier. Based on what else I have read I believe the culprit here may be the rectifier. I do not have any electrical meters, etc... to test these electric components. So here are my questions:

Should I begin my attempt to solve the source of my battery drain problem by simply replacing the rectifier? Can someone confirm for me the rectifier is located right behind the blinker / signal relay on the T500? Does anyone have photos of the rectifier so that I can be certain about the component I am looking to replace? THANKS!


Last edited by ericsattic on Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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MR.CHocko
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Joined: Oct 02, 2006
Posts: 2050
Location: New Britian, CT

PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First you diagnosed the problem that the battery is not charging. First what I suggest you do is go and buy a cheap multimeter at walmart, Pepboys,etc. $8.00 is a lot cheaper then having to spend $250 for both a new rectifer and a stator. Then what I suggest you do is to start testing electrical components. Once you know what is bad then go from there. Both a bad rectifer and a bad stator will cause the problems that you are having.
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MR.CHocko wrote:
First you diagnosed the problem that the battery is not charging. First what I suggest you do is go and buy a cheap multimeter at walmart, Pepboys,etc. $8.00 is a lot cheaper then having to spend $250 for both a new rectifer and a stator. Then what I suggest you do is to start testing electrical components. Once you know what is bad then go from there. Both a bad rectifer and a bad stator will cause the problems that you are having.


You are right - I just need to buy one of those meters, do the testing, and get it over with. I was looking for the lazy way out by just simply replacing a part. So, I will get a meter and start testing, right after I figure out where and how to start the testing! Clipping the meter wires on battery terminals for voltage testing while the bike is not running - and then while running - sounds easy enough. But then after that I may need some guidance! Funny how I always say I'm not an electician and have a bit of a "fear" about electrical work because I know little about electrical systems. Yet on all the bikes I have bought I am always forced to deal with electical issues - but to this point focused on wiring for the headlight, tail and brake light, guages, signals, horn, etc... Well, finally time to take it a step further. Thanks for the recommendation (as simple as it sounds) but I wil probably be back...
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CaptCatFish
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Joined: Mar 27, 2010
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Location: Robbinsville, NC

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Chocko is right. By a digital ohm/voltage meter from Wal-mart, connect the leads to the battery currently installed in the bike, duct-tape the meter to the tank, start her up and watch what happens to the voltage. You may even want to go for a ride provided you can safely focus on the road while glancing at the meter.

In my experience, the battery should read at least 12.5 volts or more when fully charged; drop to 12.3 or so when the lights come on, but go back up to around 13 volts or more when the bike is running at least 3-4K rpms. If you are not getting these upper values, the bike is not re-charging your battery at a sufficient level to overcome the drainage from the lights at lower speeds.

If its not charging, some one smarter than I am will have to chime in here about how to determine whether or not its the rectifier (i.e., voltage regulator) or stator/charging coil. I suspect the rectifier but can't be sure.

I hate electrical problems. Far more frustrating (to me) than all things mechanical............

CaptCatFish

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Bikegeezer
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Joined: Dec 26, 2007
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaptCatFish wrote:


I hate electrical problems. Far more frustrating (to me) than all things mechanical............

CaptCatFish
That's why I love electrical problems...when they're on someone else's bike. I make some good money solving electrical problems that no other shop in town was able to fix.

Stu
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KirkN
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Joined: Feb 23, 2007
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Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaptCatFish wrote:
I hate electrical problems. Far more frustrating (to me) than all things mechanical............CaptCatFish



Naahh. With a cheapie meter, and a 'water pipe' understanding of electricity, they're as easy as anything else - jetting after switching to pods, troubleshooting idling issues, getting accurate speedo readings.... Smile

Kirk
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MR.CHocko
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the bike running put the correct end of the meter to right terminal on the battery. Set your meter to volts and then check to see if it is charging. That should tell you if your stator is bad. The rectifer I believe you should take it off and do a test for resistance. IT should give you a specfic ohm range.
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MR.CHocko wrote:
With the bike running put the correct end of the meter to right terminal on the battery. Set your meter to volts and then check to see if it is charging. That should tell you if your stator is bad. The rectifer I believe you should take it off and do a test for resistance. IT should give you a specfic ohm range.


Thanks again to Mr. Chocko! - sure wish I still lived in Newington - right next to "New Britski"! I have been busy this week but hope to tinker with some testing this weekend... obviously be back on the board after that.

PS dija see that '72 T500 showbike PM had for sale - just sold for $5400
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaptCatFish wrote:
Mr. Chocko is right. By a digital ohm/voltage meter from Wal-mart, connect the leads to the battery currently installed in the bike, duct-tape the meter to the tank, start her up and watch what happens to the voltage. You may even want to go for a ride provided you can safely focus on the road while glancing at the meter.

In my experience, the battery should read at least 12.5 volts or more when fully charged; drop to 12.3 or so when the lights come on, but go back up to around 13 volts or more when the bike is running at least 3-4K rpms. If you are not getting these upper values, the bike is not re-charging your battery at a sufficient level to overcome the drainage from the lights at lower speeds.

If its not charging, some one smarter than I am will have to chime in here about how to determine whether or not its the rectifier (i.e., voltage regulator) or stator/charging coil. I suspect the rectifier but can't be sure.

I hate electrical problems. Far more frustrating (to me) than all things mechanical............

CaptCatFish


Aye, Aye, skipper! Love the tip about taping the meter to the bike and taking her for a ride. I'm such a freakin' dummy - simple idea yet I would never have thought of that. I just knew duct tape had to play a key part in this repair. Laughing
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CaptCatFish
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Joined: Mar 27, 2010
Posts: 120
Location: Robbinsville, NC

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give me a roll of duct tape, a can of WD-40, a gallon of bleach and all problems can be solved at least for a little while.

Careful the next time you go fishing. You've got some BIG blue catfish in the James and a couple of more rivers in VA that I can't spell (Rappahanock?). I have a friend there who consistently catches 50lb+ catfish. On second thought, I'm not sure how good a friend he is since he never offered to take me with him Sad

CaptCatFish

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SPRHK
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Joined: Mar 28, 2011
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Location: Belvidere NJ, USA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A battery in good condition will read 12.3-12.7 volts with the key off. If you are reading less than that, disconnect the positve lead on the battery & check again. If it still reads the same, then the battery is on it's way out. If the voltage rises once disconnected, you have a short somewhere, slowly draining the battery. Not really sure what the T500 charging rate is, and some bikes dont charge at idle, but as a rule, if the charging system is in good working order, it should charge at least 14 volts, if not more.
_________________
Cycle Madness Mototrcycle Repair
Belvidere NJ 07823
908.475.2332
Have: 1998 VTR1000F, 1993 CBR900RR, 1991 Honda Shadow, 1986 Yamaha SRX600, *1978 KZ400B, *1978 GS1000E, *2002 CBR954RR

Had: 1970 Kaw A1 250 Samurai, 1978 Yam SR500 x2, 1978 DT400, 1980 Xs650, 1981 Honda FT500 x2, 1980 Yam XT500, 1973 Bultaco 250 Persang,1073 Honda CB350T....and thats all I remember off the top of my head.
* denotes Project bikes
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SPRHK wrote:
A battery in good condition will read 12.3-12.7 volts with the key off. If you are reading less than that, disconnect the positve lead on the battery & check again. If it still reads the same, then the battery is on it's way out. If the voltage rises once disconnected, you have a short somewhere, slowly draining the battery. Not really sure what the T500 charging rate is, and some bikes dont charge at idle, but as a rule, if the charging system is in good working order, it should charge at least 14 volts, if not more.


Thanks for the detailed response. The battery is a solid 12.5v while connected but with key off, and it holds a charge even though the bike has not run in over a week. Will have to do some testing this weekend with the bike running; turning on the lights and using the signal flashers while the bike is running appears to accelerate the drain so my first tests will be without the lights on. One question I have = where do I attach (tape) the meter wires to accurately test the charging rate while I am driving the bike? Do I simply attach them to the battery wires where they attach to the battery? Seems to me I should be attaching them elsewhere in the charging system circuit (e.g., somehow attach them to the wires exiting the generator; the wires leading to the rectifier, etc...?).
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SPRHK
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Joined: Mar 28, 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You dont need to ride the bike to test Fire the bike up, put your probes on the appropriate terminals of the battery and test accordingly.
_________________
Cycle Madness Mototrcycle Repair
Belvidere NJ 07823
908.475.2332
Have: 1998 VTR1000F, 1993 CBR900RR, 1991 Honda Shadow, 1986 Yamaha SRX600, *1978 KZ400B, *1978 GS1000E, *2002 CBR954RR

Had: 1970 Kaw A1 250 Samurai, 1978 Yam SR500 x2, 1978 DT400, 1980 Xs650, 1981 Honda FT500 x2, 1980 Yam XT500, 1973 Bultaco 250 Persang,1073 Honda CB350T....and thats all I remember off the top of my head.
* denotes Project bikes
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ericsattic
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Northern Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SPRHK wrote:
You dont need to ride the bike to test Fire the bike up, put your probes on the appropriate terminals of the battery and test accordingly.


OK, so I can simply attach the meter to the battery wires at the battery terminals, then start the bike and rev it for a while up to around 4-5k rmp and read the meter? If so, I will do that and if it reads OK - then the next step would be to turn the lights on I would imagine...
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SPRHK
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Location: Belvidere NJ, USA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would fire the bike up, lights off, test battery at idle, slowly rev up to about 3000rpm, reading the meter. Then flip the head light on and do it again. I really dont think you need to rev it up to 4000-5000 RPM.
_________________
Cycle Madness Mototrcycle Repair
Belvidere NJ 07823
908.475.2332
Have: 1998 VTR1000F, 1993 CBR900RR, 1991 Honda Shadow, 1986 Yamaha SRX600, *1978 KZ400B, *1978 GS1000E, *2002 CBR954RR

Had: 1970 Kaw A1 250 Samurai, 1978 Yam SR500 x2, 1978 DT400, 1980 Xs650, 1981 Honda FT500 x2, 1980 Yam XT500, 1973 Bultaco 250 Persang,1073 Honda CB350T....and thats all I remember off the top of my head.
* denotes Project bikes
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