Don't have an account yet? You can create one. As a registered user you have some advantages like theme manager, comments configuration and post comments with your name.
Joined: Oct 03, 2005 Posts: 1595 Location: Marshall, MI
Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:57 am Post subject:
Many opinions here and I have another one. Turn that motor upside down for days and drain that water crap out of there. Suck it out, turn the crank drain and repeat. Then put two stroke oil in the crankcase and get some good oil to those crank bearings quickly. Flush drain and do it again. Rotate crank and feel for play, grinding and overall bearing performance. See where I am going?? Maybe save the bottom end rebuild and even just clean the top end, put on a new base gasket and head gasket , check compression and if over 100 psi see if it will run. I am poor and so I can't just spend money. If it doesn't work you only spent a few dollars for a base gasket and head gasket. Others here will have a different opinion of my suggestion but....bottom line is that as the owner of vintage equipment you ultimately have to make the decision on how far you are willing to go on a project. Isn't this FUN!!! _________________ You only go around once in life, but if you do it right, once is enough!
Joined: Dec 06, 2010 Posts: 40 Location: Richland/Central Mississippi
Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:14 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
What are you going to do Leland? I am thinking it is going to cost several hundred dollars just to get the engine running. Another $300.00 hundred just to get it in safe riding condition. Add $2400.00 to restore it close to its former glory. You had already read in your initial threads that the crank seals were almost surely bad, before you took off the top end. Whether the hits are all at once, over a few months or over a few years, $3400.00 is $3400.00. Plus the cost of a bonded title, registration and liability insurance. I could not afford a re-do on that bike, can you? As H2Lou put it in another, completely unrelated thread... "...get it and play with it...if you don't have the cash, learn where to cut your ties."
Have you given any thought to what I had said about keeping that bike that you only paid $50.00 for as a source at your fingertips for spare parts that you will always need even on the runner that I know you will eventually find.
What are you going to do Leland? I had said I would be a part of many sources available to help, so here is my part if you want it.I have typed out a long detailed description of how to correctly split the cases and how to remove everything you need to remove before separating the cases. It is based on just using hand tools that I think you have already and improvising a little. If you don't have a large enough socket, check out a pawn shop and you can buy a cheap one for a couple of bucks. While you are there check and see if they have a hand impact driver set or you can buy a cheap new one for about $8.00 or less at an independent tool store. Let me know if you need the info I have typed out for you. It is mostly complete.
Well I'm looking at it like this... I can leave the engine as is and if I don't get a title I sell it as is and the next owner can deal with it or I can do a complete tear down and get a gallon of gas and a tooth brush and clean the hell out of everything. This way if I don't get a title I can barter or sell the good parts and if I get a title Im already ahead and more informed on what I need and how to do it. Im already prepared to spent around 1000.00 of need be when my loans come in to get the engine up to snuff. Then I'll have to wait till mid October to get her road worthy. Restored to original beauty... that concerns me very little at this point in time. I may throw a coat of paint on it to cover up the ugly after bondo work but as far as a gem mint ride I'm prepared to drag that out over several years.
Post the instructions my friend. It never hurts to give me info..... uh....... even if I am a little hard headed.
I may sound that way but I'm just the kind of person that needs to see a project to the end (whatever the end may be...) no matter what. If I don't do everything I can I'll be kicking myself for years wondering what if. Call it stupidity, call it ignorant, hell, call it OCD. Any way your probably right......
Bikegeezer wrote:
Leland1 wrote:
Well geezer you were right... I'm rebuilding an engine when the time comes.. at least opening her up and scrubbing the ugly out..... my latest thread will explain.
Thanks for the heads up! Seems like even geezers know that their talking about every now and then..... unless the "old timers" has set in....
Just kidding geezer.
Leland,
You've only seen The Good and The Bad from that vantage point. My hunch is that The Ugly still lurks inside the crankcase. But all of us geezers here were once in your position and can understand why you don't grasp the enormity of the task ahead of you in terms of time and dollars. Forge ahead. You'll learn.
Stu
Geezer I put this quote here because its just easier on a cell phone and basically all the same info applies....
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 299 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:18 pm Post subject:
Personally, there's no reason I wouldn't tackle that repair and ride gem.
Thing is, as a first bike, it's not the easiest of things to do. However, I didn't exactly start off easy myself. My first build was done by robbing parts from the junk yard until I had enough to build a bike, THEN I had to rebuild the parts to build the bike. Mind you I was 12, but what I learned has been with me on every journey since.
In short, go for it. I do suggest getting the seals (and possibly bearings if your crank builder suggests) and send it off to be redone. It's not "that" expensive, and can be the difference between "it runs" and "it's a great bike".
While the crank's off to be done, great time to address the oil hoses and fittings (there are means outside of NOS). Check the trans out (best to leave it laying in the lower case on tear down to make it easy to familiarize yourself) as well as clean and dielectric all the electrical connections.
If you're close to a Massey dealer, nab ya some of the Agco flange sealant (aka Honda bond from Honda......... etc.)
I'm personally bad to soak gutted engines in a tub of diesel fuel or kerosene for a day or so prior to cleaning, but I'm still stuck in another decade.
Either way, take your time and just do it. Double check each step before you turn a bolt, but do it.
Frank _________________ "There is no man living that can not do more than he thinks he can."
"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal."
"Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is probably the reason why so few engage in it."
"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal."
Henry Ford
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1639 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 8:27 pm Post subject:
Hey Leland, I have pm'd you the info and some pics along with some final personal comments on the matter. _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
Joined: Dec 13, 2008 Posts: 243 Location: Victoria, BC
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:55 am Post subject:
Quote:
I'm personally bad to soak gutted engines in a tub of diesel fuel or kerosene for a day or so prior to cleaning, but I'm still stuck in another decade.
+1
diesel fuel is the best. _________________ To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
The black sooty stuff on top of the pistons & heads is carbon buildup & nothing to worry about at this time. If you are not sure what your taking a look at, post some pics & they can help. _________________ Motorcycle Parts Motorcycle Accessories
Joined: Mar 27, 2010 Posts: 120 Location: Robbinsville, NC
Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 3:04 am Post subject:
I guess I'll weigh in here with a personal but well informed opinion since I just finished a complete resto of a T500 from the crankshaft up.
I agree with others who said not to spend another dime until you do a complete crankshaft and bearing assessment. Given the amount of water that has been sitting in one cylinder, its hard to imagine those bearings and journals would not be rusty and pitted.
Be prepared to spend some major bucks for bearing replacement (if you can find them) and a crankshaft rebuild (Bill Bune is top drawer IMO). Think of it this way. You'll never trust that bike for a ride any distance from your home unless you know its fundamentally sound from the crankshaft up.
I agree with a previous comment about finding a better T500 and using this bike as a donor bike. I ended up with two T500s which were merged into one and now have a totally trustworthy T500 plus spare engine and miscellaneous parts (very reassuring since I plan to keep it forever).
Good luck.
CaptCatFish
titan # 4.jpg
Description:
Filesize:
60.98 KB
Viewed:
32 Time(s)
_________________ Old and ugly (but say it ain´t so)
All times are GMT - 6 Hours Goto page Previous1, 2
Page 2 of 2
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You can attach files in this forum You can download files in this forum
