1974 T500 Not Getting Juice

Leland1 · Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:55 pm Post subject:

Yeah... I see what you mean...

I'm typing on my cell so I try to keep it short and apparently not very to the point. Lol! (point... get it!)

Anyway sorry about the confusion. Let me clarify.

Yes.. the ignition coil under the gas tank I was referring to is indeed a 2 coil pack with "T500- (insert part # here) on the side of both. I cleaned the square points on them when I got the bike. The points on the stator coil (charging coil? ) were checked and cleaned 2 days ago, as well as the points on the inside of the stator coil itself.. My bike does have condensers and points as the picture you showed me the other day.

I unplugged the ignition coils from the stator coil and ran 4 wires to the 4 points inside the plug for the stator coil (male end) and kicked her off in every configuration I could think of with no effects. I unhooked (read "snipped") a wire on the kill switch to be sure it wasn't grounding itself out.

That help any? I'm still kinda new to the motorcycle mechanic jargon. This the limit to my small engine vocabulary and experience.....

My lawn mower don't run....

(Spray some "Start Damnit!" Into carb,turn over with no luck.Kit and clean carb, take wire grill brush to magnito, insert gas into tank)

Works now!

Repeat 5 times then repeat with a few weed wackers to gain my full wealth of knowledge)

dorT500 · Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 6:41 pm Post subject:

Leland1 · Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:16 am Post subject:

Well.. the ignition coils are shot. I can stretch the plug wire at the coils about 1 inch so I'm thinking they won't fire because the wire isn't connected inside the insulation. Do I need good ignition coils before I set the points?

dorT500 · Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 4:12 pm Post subject:

Leland1 · Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:30 pm Post subject:

I took some pics just in case Id need them. Ill post them tomorrow so I can get to a computer to upload them.

rdaystrom · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 3:34 am Post subject:

Seems like there is a language barrier here. Points here and there???? The ignition points also known as contact breakers. Perhaps contact breaker would be a better term to use at this "point."

jayel · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:14 am Post subject:

you said you cut one of the kill switch wires, is the kill switch a true grounding switch or does the power for the coils run thru it? what year/model do you have?

Leland1 · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:28 am Post subject:

I figured it was a true grounding switch.....1974 T500L

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:28 pm Post subject:

Power for the coils runs through the kill switch and I suppose Hmm

you could just remove the coil harness, set it aside and use some jumper wires(see yellow dots by coils) on the male connections(in the same configuration) of the supply harness to time (as you had asked about earlier) the 'contact breakers' Wink

but I really don't see the 'point'..it won't run without the ignition coils. Until you can afford the parts you need you might consider cleaning every single electrical connection on that bike...that will be almost cost free, give you a good opportunity to become very familiar with even more areas of the bike and give you a good headstart when it comes time to move on to other repairs when it is time. Either that or cover with a blanket until you know for sure you can get bonded title. Hang in there.

:h

Leland1 · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 4:18 pm Post subject:

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-27.html#products

Will a set of the $24 coils work on my bike?

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 4:49 pm Post subject:

I don't know that those would work as permanent replacements. None of them meet the resistance specs and then there is the question of if you could get them to mount/fit properly. I will defer to someone else for comments on that. Anybody?

But let's back up here a minute. Let's find out if your originals are ok. If you think there is enough good wire coming out of the coils to connect NGK Splicers and new wire to them than that would be a good option. If you are 100% sure the spark plug wires are broken inside the insulation then go ahead and cut it and measure resistance with the ohms setting on a multimeter. If you wind up using the splicers just be sure and cut the suspected area as far away from the coil body as possible and if you have to, keep snipping it off a little at time until you are no closer than a few inches away from the coils.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/performance/splicers.asp

http://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&channel=s&hl=en&source=hp&q=NGK+splicers&btnG=Google+Search#q=NGK+splicers&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=zSe&sa=G&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=s&prmd=ivnsfd&source=univ&tbs=shop:1&tbo=u&ei=NYAWTerfD4a8lQeNqvG-DA&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CC4QrQQwAg&biw=1016&bih=566&fp=83f87efc6f926f13