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KirkN
Gear Head
Joined: Feb 23, 2007
Posts: 1044
Location: Orlando, FL
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 Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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JCWhitney.com DennisKirk.com Bikebandit.com ebay.
I've had good luck on ebay just typing in "3.00-18 tire" and scrolling thru all the hits... That's how we got a good deal on the Weird-Alice tires that are stock on my son's weirdo Honda NX250.
Good luck. |
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Bikegeezer
Gear Head
Joined: Dec 26, 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 8:50 am Post subject: |
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| Higgsy wrote: | | I installed a new battery. A 6 volt battery was only $11 so I ordered 2 of them. With the bike not running and the key on only the horn and signals work but not the running light is this normal? When the bike is running every thing works fine I just thought that the lights would work off of battery power when the engine is not running. |
The headlamp on the F7 runs on a AC lighting coil from the generator. No headlamp unless the engine is running. The 7:1 is the "corrected compression ratio" - calculated from when the piston seals off the ports, not from the bottom of the stroke. Leave it alone is my advice. They run great as is. Make sure the baffle is in the end of the muffler. Petcock is vacuum actuated. Yours appears to be working correctly. Attach a Mity Vac or similar to the petcocks vacuum port and apply vacuum in the on or prime position. Fuel should begin flowing at around 2" of vacuum.
Stu |
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Higgsy
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jul 17, 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the info Stu. ( You look to young to be considered a Geezer though. LOL)
Here's a little update on the bike.
I'll leave the engine alone it's starts and runs a fine. I just needed to clean the carb and replace the cracked O-ring inside the carb. I also had to replace the gasket in the petcock. Connecting the fuel lines properly always helps 
I have a new chain waiting for the new sprockets to arrive. I had to settle for a 55 tooth on the rear for now. The stock is a 50 tooth but I haven't found one yet. I did go up a tooth on the front to help lower the RPM's on the road. Right now with a 14 front and and 55 tooth rear the engine is reving out at 6000 RPM's to do 50mph. That's a little too high I think.
Stu it's funny you made the comment about the baffle because the other day I cleaned the carb and installed it on the 1971 and it fired up on the 3rd kick but I need to check for the baffle in the muffler on the 1971 because it has a little more bark to it than the 1974 does.
I am waiting for a piston for the 1971 F6 and it should be running soon too.
I just noticed now the F6 has a 18" front and the F 7's uses a 19" front. It should be easier to find front rubber for the F7's. |
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Bikegeezer
Gear Head
Joined: Dec 26, 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 3:14 am Post subject: |
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| Higgsy wrote: | Thanks for the info Stu. ( You look to young to be considered a Geezer though. LOL)
Here's a little update on the bike.
I'll leave the engine alone it's starts and runs a fine. I just needed to clean the carb and replace the cracked O-ring inside the carb. I also had to replace the gasket in the petcock. Connecting the fuel lines properly always helps
I have a new chain waiting for the new sprockets to arrive. I had to settle for a 55 tooth on the rear for now. The stock is a 50 tooth but I haven't found one yet. I did go up a tooth on the front to help lower the RPM's on the road. Right now with a 14 front and and 55 tooth rear the engine is reving out at 6000 RPM's to do 50mph. That's a little too high I think.
Stu it's funny you made the comment about the baffle because the other day I cleaned the carb and installed it on the 1971 and it fired up on the 3rd kick but I need to check for the baffle in the muffler on the 1971 because it has a little more bark to it than the 1974 does.
I am waiting for a piston for the 1971 F6 and it should be running soon too.
I just noticed now the F6 has a 18" front and the F 7's uses a 19" front. It should be easier to find front rubber for the F7's. |
Thanks. Clothes and sunglasses hide a lot. Just turned 63, and I'm on Social Security. I think that might qualify me for the screen name. Re: the above post- I meant to say check with a MityVac in on and reserve positions. Fuel should flow all the time in prime position. Make sure baffles are in place and clean. A 2-stroke with the baffle out will be way down on power and could even damage the top end due to overheating. You really want to get the stock gearing. Those F7s will damn near climb a phone pole in first and can cruise the highway at 70 in top gear. And unless you plan on doing all your riding on the highway, I suggest leaving the front axle in the standard position - centered under the fork tube. The pre-load adjusters on the fork caps are probably stuck from rust. Take apart and clean.
Stu |
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Higgsy
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jul 17, 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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I am installing the head soon on our F6. Does anyone know the torque specs for the F6 head. I am guessing around 28lbs to 30lbs but I could be wrong.
( I know what some are thinking "get a manual and quit asking so many dumb question on here") LOL |
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Higgsy
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jul 17, 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Found the info I was looking for 14.5 to 17.5 lbs. |
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