How to replace outer crankshaft seals on T500?

CaptCatFish · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:44 pm Post subject:

I finally got a complete seal kit for my T500 from a group in Canada. Now its time for the fun part - installation!

Any words of advice or special tricks I should know before I start prying out the seals on either end of the crank, the kickstart seal, the clutch pushrod seal and any others that appear possible without splitting the crankcase?

The engine is still in the bike.

Thanks in advance to those helping me on this.

Jim

dorT500 · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 10:00 pm Post subject:

On installing the left seal T500 ...it (if NOS OEM) has 'tabs' One time during a rebuild and just dry fitting everything together I noticed that the tabs could get close to or even partially block the oil ports that run from the outside of the bearing case to the inside. I used a paper clip (through the CCI supply port on the left cylinder) to check an see if this was the case and sure enough I could urge the paper clip through but there was just a bit of 'interference' passing by the seal. I shot some oil through it with an oil can (more pressure that the oil pump) and it seemed ok but I would in the future check this every time and start out with the seal just flush with the outside of the bearing. Perhaps I am being overcautious here but it just seems to me that if the seal was tapped in until it would go no further there could be a problem. There are open gaps between the tabs but I don't remember if the gap was large enough to clear both oil passages on bearing case or if there was a gap you could line up with each port. Hope somebody can check me on this thought.

EDIT: OK..It has been a long time. I am sitting here looking at a spare Rightside crankseal and see the tabs or 'off set's' have a very slight offset from the outer rim of the seal.... just enough for oil to flow passed them. I was thinking the tabs and outer seal rim were flush .Take a look at the seals you have and you will see what I mean.

Also, if you have not already done this part....

CaptCatFish · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 2:27 am Post subject:

Thanks DORT500 sooooo much! I'll be extra special careful to watch out for those oil passages and make sure they are clear and the replacement seals are where they should be. I'm sure I'll have other questions as I get into this.

As for removing the rotor, when I did my "practice surgery" on my spare motor, I just used a gear puller and as gently as possible, wrenched the rotor off the crankshaft shaft by hooking the claws into the rotor frame itself. Was that a mistake? Is there a better way to do that?

Also have you heard from Mitchberry? He's apparently very frustrated right now and is thinking off selling his T500 and doing something else. I've suggested taking a deep breath and not do it.

Jim (CaptCatFish)

dorT500 · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:55 am Post subject:

My thinking/memory on the seals was just wrong....just install the seals in the normal way if they are NOS/OEM I would think that some damage to to rotor could occur that may not be easily apparent using a puller. I really don't remember where I got the bolt...maybe at an auto supply or more likely a local bolt supply outfit. If you want a bolt for future use I would think you could order one from Grainger or McMaster Carr,etc if you do not have a bolt supply outfit in your area. I used the bolt to draw the rotor off before I heard the rear axle could be used. Good luck....I've got to hit the road and get to work.

CaptCatFish · Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:54 am Post subject: So far, so good.............

I got the left side done yesterday without incident. Although I did not use the rear axel bolt as suggested by DorT500, (which was really pretty stupid of me), the rotor came off without any trouble. Everything moved out of the way handily to provide enough working space.

The left side cranksahft seal itself was easy to remove and popped right out without any swearing. The well greased new one went in like it was supposed to. Everything buttoned up like a good left side should.

Then moving over to the right side, MAN oh MAN is that crankshaft nut on tight! It took considerable swearing and cursing to loosen this puppy up! The only way I could do it was to jam several pennies between the crankshaft gear and clutch housing to hold it (thanks to the suggestion from sesshomaru), a hand held impact tool. a hammer and a long length of pipe added to the torque wrench to get it loose. Not to mention a little more swearing and cursing............

Today, I'll figure out a good way to hold the inner clutch basket steady while loosening the basket locknut. Then its on to the crankshaft seal.

My ferverant prayer is that when I light it up next time, I'll be burning the correct air/fuel mixture on the left side and zero tranny oil on the right side.

Thanks everybody who helped me on this. I'll post any updates that might be helpful for someone else attempting this.

(I am soooooo happy I invested in a donor bike/engine to practice on and use for backup parts).

Happy 4th!

CaptCatFish