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Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 4:57 am Post subject: Basketcase 72 T250 Hustler (Parts Ordered, plus a manual ?)
Hidy,
Frank here. I've just picked up a 72 T250 Hustler, in need of resurrection. I've got some questions, but first the info.
It's a straight and complete bike.
Been sitting since late 04 or early 05, buried in a garage, with the top end apart. The po (one owner bike until yesterday) had taken the top end down for a rebuild (for no good reason, according to his son). He had the jugs (cylinders) bored and purchased his over-sized pistons and rings. . . . . .
He put it back together, but it wasn't right, so he tore it back down again and took the dismantled top end to the local Suzuki shop (NOT reliable). The shop told him that one cylinder was bored to the wrong size (he didn't remember details). Brought the parts back home and gave up on it I guess.
I bought it last night, (with the top end in a desk drawer in his house) as a roller and plan to begin it's resurrection today. Right now the primary order of business is to mic the jugs and slugs, to get an idea of what I'm working with. Hopefully it's a small overbore and I can just take her a size up, but we'll see, jugs are readily available.
Clutch, brakes and throttle are free, and the fuel tank looks like new money inside, but that's about all I know at the moment.
It's been a LONG time since I've messed with a T20 ^, but if memory serves, this is an all down shift pattern isn't it?
Where can I find the machining specs for this engine (I have NO use for the local Suzuki shop)?
What's the "accepted" method of testing the oiler system?
Any common issues to look out for?
What is the bore tolerance?
Well, off to grab my mics and see how far from 54mm she is and what the difference in the bores is, Then I think I'm going to pull the power plant from the chassis and get started on cleaning things up.
Thanks all,
Frank
Last edited by Freaky_1 on Mon May 10, 2010 2:32 pm; edited 2 times in total
Joined: Oct 30, 2009 Posts: 611 Location: Parker, CO
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 6:15 am Post subject:
Congratulations on your new aquasition and welcome to VJMOG!
As Russell said the tranny is 1 down and 5 up (6 speeds). The same as the T20. One thing that was unusal on the T20 tranny is that it had a positive neutral while downshifting only, which some owners had the shifting drum machined to remove. I'm not sure, but I doubt that would be the case on your bike.
As for the oiling system, first you must leave it operational on a Suzuki as it oils critical bearings as well as the cylinders. Use a little pre-mix to start, until you know the pump is working. Run engine at lower RPM's while holding the oil pump throttle lever open by hand and look for air bubbles or different color oil etc. moving through all four lines. Leaking at banjo bolts is real common on these old bikes, becareful not to overtighten. You may want to look into new crank seals if the motor is going to be broke down. Also pick up a manual, they are readily available on Ebay.
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 7:47 am Post subject:
Russell wrote:
Wasn't it just the usual 'down into Ist, then up,up up,up.Industry standard?
Thanks Russell. After getting out an playing with it this morning, I remembered that it is in fact standard. I'm almost certain it was the Benellis I was thinking of.
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:10 am Post subject:
Rizingson wrote:
Congratulations on your new aquasition and welcome to VJMOG!
As Russell said the tranny is 1 down and 5 up (6 speeds). The same as the T20. One thing that was unusal on the T20 tranny is that it had a positive neutral while downshifting only, which some owners had the shifting drum machined to remove. I'm not sure, but I doubt that would be the case on your bike.
As for the oiling system, first you must leave it operational on a Suzuki as it oils critical bearings as well as the cylinders. Use a little pre-mix to start, until you know the pump is working. Run engine at lower RPM's while holding the oil pump throttle lever open by hand and look for air bubbles or different color oil etc. moving through all four lines. Leaking at banjo bolts is real common on these old bikes, becareful not to overtighten. You may want to look into new crank seals if the motor is going to be broke down. Also pick up a manual, they are readily available on Ebay.
Thanks Rizingson,
I should have recalled the shift pattern being standard. Ah well, old is working wonders on me I suppose. lol This either IS positive neutral, or just needs some use.
Operational oiling............ This I DO remember. Though I'm abashed to admit it, I've owned a few and repaired many more. Most of these were from trying to "bypass" the "oiler". I don't reuse ANY seals / gaskets, and this will be torn down just for the fact that I don't trust the work or care of the po.
The manual is something I meant to ask about. I still have an X7 (GT250) manual. Is there enough difference to worry with getting the correct manual? My Daughter's found me a PDF download that's cheap............. I can just get it IF there's little I'd need from it v/s the later manual. If it's going to be a good deal of difference, I'd rather just buy the paper manual as apposed to printing one out.
Back on the oiling system, I seem to recall a means of checking it's operation (though not it's operation under run) with the engine down. I may be mixing things up with the Kawasakis though. Think I'm just thinking of another brand again?
THEN, another question. I've got to rebuild the tubes and replace the steering bearings, and will be replacing pretty much every piece of rubber on the thing, as well as wheel bearings and such. I wonder if I could get opinions on the best online source for Suzuki parts (specifically this bike)? I'm looking at price / service.
Joined: Nov 02, 2008 Posts: 1085 Location: New Zealand
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:43 pm Post subject:
Tap into United Kingdom Classic Bike information sources. You'd be surprised what is available readily.
You may also want to try these Australian Suzy specialists www.suziparts.com.au/ The confusing world of exchange rates can make oversea's sourcing of parts cheaper than a cursory look at the sticker price initially suggests.
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 3:57 pm Post subject:
Russell wrote:
Tap into United Kingdom Classic Bike information sources. You'd be surprised what is available readily.
You may also want to try these Australian Suzy specialists www.suziparts.com.au/ The confusing world of exchange rates can make oversea's sourcing of parts cheaper than a cursory look at the sticker price initially suggests.
Thanks Russell,
I priced rings semi-locally and nearly had a heart attack! lol They want $120 (US) for ONE set of rings (for one cylinder!!!). I'll look into both post haste.
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 4:39 pm Post subject: UPDATE
Thought I'd give an update on the prognosis.
Turns out both bores are fine. YEAH!
Both bores CLEANLY .5 overbore.
Then it get's more interesting.
Left cylinder has a STD piston! (heads and cylinders were removed, but pistons still on rods)
Both pistons had rings sized ABOVE the bore size (ring ends over lap slightly when seated square in bore).
Maybe I'm getting lucky and maybe not. lol, We'll see.
I found a set of NOS .5mm over pistons, pins and bearings (sadly, he didn't have the rings) for $20 and nearly ripped my pants off trying to get my wallet!
Then I get home and get a phone call, and I've found a set of .8mm over. These are cheap as well, but from a cursory search, it appears that rings for this size are hard to find....? I'll probably buy them either way as they too are NOS Suzuki. He also thinks he's still got a set of 1mm over pistons.... if he does, I'll likely buy them as well.
Other news.
So far everything's MUCH cleaner and factory tight than expected. I contacted the po's son and found out that until the first tear down, nothing had been done other than a yearly tune and sync at their dealer. He also informed me that the engine did NOT go back together as I'd understood from the op. He said that his Father couldn't get the pistons into the bores. LOL DUH.
In the process of our discussion, he tells me where a complete GT350 engine is, so off I go to check it out.
Serious basketcase GT350. Engine is in fact complete, and in frame. No rear wheel, ONE fork tube, no bar, no fuel tank, GREAT seat and only one pipe.
Monkeyed around and put some mix into the fuel bowls and she fired up! Talk about sounding bad though. One pipe and one open makes for an interesting noise. Didn't let her run even long enough to toss the fuel, but (by feel) good compression and it runs.
I can get the engine, frame and ONE exhaust pipe (no baffle) for $125. I'm going back Monday (guy works out of town for 2 weeks, home two weeks and won't be in till Monday) to get it.
It's NOT going on the 72. I may be able to find a tosser bike to fix this one up for cheap, or I might just do something I've wanted to do for MANY years, and put the engine on a go-cart. lol Who knows.
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO in my endeavors, I did manage to pick up a nice set of NOS Suzuki .5 pistons, but everything else is just future projects bin. lol
FWIW, I LOVED these bikes back in the day. They were seriously fun and actually very reliable. I always thought I'd find the one keeper and just hang onto it, but never did. Hopefully, I have now. Until my first H2, the 2cycle Suzuki twin was the king of fun for me. Now that I'm getting on in years, the H2 still holds it's place for me, but a nice stock Hustler is more practical. Don't get me wrong though... Now that I've sold the Mutt (H2 hybrid), I will be on the look out for a STOCK H2. Sadly though, it'll be for the purpose of having it more than regular riding.
Next I want to recreate my Sister's little Yamaha twin 2cycle, but I'm going t have to do some research to even remember the model (separated twin 200ish). She's a touch younger than me, but no spring chicken and it's time she finally got her bike back. (sold by her abusive EX husband in the late 80s).
Thanks again everyone! Keep any and all suggestions, comments (or even rants ) going please. I feel like a kid again, getting back to my favorite era of motorcycles.
To recap. Still interested in the manual information from above post. Still hoping for more parts local suggestions and such. Really just anything you have to offer.
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1639 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 7:44 pm Post subject:
Freaky_1 wrote:
I priced rings semi-locally and nearly had a heart attack! lol They want $120 (US) for ONE set of rings (for one cylinder!!!). I'll look into both post haste.Frank
Hey Frank, Welcome to the VJMOG.
Was that a counterman at a Suzuki Dealership that gave you $120 price for one set of rings? _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:28 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
Hey Frank, Welcome to the VJMOG.
Thanks! Seems like a good bunch of folks here!
dorT500 wrote:
Was that a counterman at a Suzuki Dealership that gave you $120 price for one set of rings?
Naw. Won't even bother with our local Suzuki Dealer. In fact I noticed today (had a job right behind their shop), that there's a going out of business sign on the building.
It was a local "Foreign motorcycle parts store" They're usually fairly priced, but for some reason they're NOT on this. lol
I just need to find the right source for my engine parts and deal with one place. I'm currently shopping around and would greatly appreciate all the suggestions anyone is willing to provide.
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1639 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:39 pm Post subject:
Yeah.. and it appears the rings are discontinued from Suzuki anyway but I( was just thinking it could have been some type of mix up on the counterman's part if he was looking in an old actual parts book or read it wrong in a vendor's cataloge. I remember walking into a Suzuki dealership once and asking the price of a piston. It seems like I remember that it was about $110.00-$120.00 dollars I was quoted. I bawked at that(had seen them for much less online) just as he started to correct himself and said that was a 'piston kit'. The rings were in the same box with the piston. New but not NOS. That made the price about right. I think I have located some NOS 0.5 rings for you. I am going by what I think is the right part number but I would want you to give me the part number you want to make sure we are looking at the same thing. _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
Joined: May 07, 2010 Posts: 297 Location: Gadsden, Alabama
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:57 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
Yeah.. and it appears the rings are discontinued from Suzuki anyway but I( was just thinking it could have been some type of mix up on the counterman's part if he was looking in an old actual parts book or read it wrong in a vendor's cataloge. I remember walking into a Suzuki dealership once and asking the price of a piston. It seems like I remember that it was about $110.00-$120.00 dollars I was quoted. I bawked at that(had seen them for much less online) just as he started to correct himself and said that was a 'piston kit'. The rings were in the same box with the piston. New but not NOS. That made the price about right.
lol Funny you mention this. I actually asked him if he misread and that was for the piston and all. Turns out it was just the one set of rings. He made a call to his supplier and was literally asking the person on the other end of the line whether they actually manage to sell the things or not.
dorT500 wrote:
I think I have located some NOS 0.5 rings for you. I am going by what I think is the right part number but I would want you to give me the part number you want to make sure we are looking at the same thing.
Thanks!!!!!
I'm currently looking for such information (part numbers) even now. I'm at a loss though, so far. Still looking
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 1639 Location: Galveston County, Tx.
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 11:00 pm Post subject:
Those are 'GT' numbers....and according to bikebandit's search option only fits 'GT's. You should be looking for 12140-18720 which shows in the alpha sports link for a 1972 T250 It is a 0.5 set. _________________ _________________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE........
_______________________________________
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