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Will this bike run the ignition, front and rear lights without a battery? Just curious, it seems with a regulator/rectifier, decent fusebox and 350ccs it could do it fairly well.
Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 1330 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:30 pm Post subject:
lupine_shadow wrote:
Will this bike run the ignition, front and rear lights without a battery? Just curious, it seems with a regulator/rectifier, decent fusebox and 350ccs it could do it fairly well.
I don't think you'll even get it started without a battery.
The ignition on these bikes runs entirely off the battery - the charging system just keeps the battery up to snuff. _________________ Bill Lane - CB200-CM200-CB450-C70M
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:03 am Post subject:
tbpmusic wrote:
I don't think you'll even get it started without a battery.
The ignition on these bikes runs entirely off the battery - the charging system just keeps the battery up to snuff.
newp will NOT run without a battery... doesnt have to be MUCH of a battery, but it does need one. has the same kind of system that the cb-750 choppers did, You can go batteryless however you need some sort of capacitor to hold a charge to get it to run and keep running. it would turn it into a kick start only bike however.
Joined: Dec 26, 2007 Posts: 1216 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject:
lupine_shadow wrote:
Hmm... if I got rid of the battery and installed the mod you're talking about, would it still run the front and rear lights?
How difficult would it be to find and install the right capacitor for the job (may need help as i am not great at wiring).
Any special tools needed, etc?
It would be harder than you want to deal with, and it might cost more than simply buying a cheapie battery. Add to that the fact that the lights will pulsate at idle, and the bike may even die if the idle speed isn't bumped up enough to increase output. At idle, these bikes run off the battery, because the breakeven speed for the charging system is around 1500 rpm - maybe higher.
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:47 pm Post subject:
Agree with Bikegeezer, IF you have a battery holder, use a battery, theyre like 25 bucks at cycle gear. The cap setup is only really good for racers and choppers, unless youre doing one of those its a better and safer setup to run a battery.
Joined: Oct 02, 2006 Posts: 1946 Location: New Britian, CT
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:57 pm Post subject:
I will admit that I have been known to do some cheap restorations. Just ask me about the total budget for my CB500 four, but one thing I will not skimp on is a battery. $20 is a good price for a battery, and I am a cheap bastard.
Point taken- having to adjust the idle, electrical system, etc would be too much to deal with. This may seem stupid, but I can only see one wire that connects to a battery on my harness- shown as the POS cable in the service manual- I don't see where the negative one is. Does this mean a cut wire or does it just make me stupid?
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:06 pm Post subject:
lupine_shadow wrote:
Point taken- having to adjust the idle, electrical system, etc would be too much to deal with. This may seem stupid, but I can only see one wire that connects to a battery on my harness- shown as the POS cable in the service manual- I don't see where the negative one is. Does this mean a cut wire or does it just make me stupid?
Cut wire, it goes from frame to neg lead... i havent looked at the bike in a while in a complete form however...
This is gonna sound pigheaded but now I'm intent on figuring out a way to go batteryless and make it work, if just for the sake of finding out. I've stripped the wiring so that the only powered things are head/rear lights and ignition, no aux. lights, gauge lights, or blinkers. I've also repositioned the carbs' idle jet so it will idle at 1500 rpm (minimum charging rpm for these bikes) and put some spare fuses in the toolkit in case of a blowout in too-high rpms.
What kind of capacitor do you buy, how do you wire it in, and where do you get it?
Joined: May 28, 2009 Posts: 421 Location: chicago area
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:20 pm Post subject:
OK suit yourself, its not any cheaper, you lose the electric leg, you dim at idle, lights wont power on with the key, instead ONLY when running, its harder to start, is not 100% guaranteed to work, might be breaking the law and youll have to find a work around to keeping it secure but here ya go.
wire in like a battery, pos to pos and neg to neg.
ran in conjunction with a battery, it will keep you from losing momentary power, but ran alone it will only keep enough of a load to force the alt to start working.
If you decide to put it in LINE with the batt, pos batt to neg cap, neg cap to pos lead in harness.
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