Don't have an account yet? You can create one. As a registered user you have some advantages like theme manager, comments configuration and post comments with your name.
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:50 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
No.......it is a separate inividual little piece....if the pump arm end is like I think it is. I could be wrong...but I don't think so.
If you look at the pic I posted, the very bottom piece is where the actual section of the old cable was still attached. Someone had just clipped the cable a few inches above it. I didn't see any other parts holding it in place. I'll take a closer look tomorrow though. Thanks!
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:57 pm Post subject:
dorT500 wrote:
Before you go too far....how is the electrical system? You had mentioned a bad or missing carb. Are you getting spark?
Oh no...lol....I'm a long ways from checking for spark. There are no cables, no plug, no carb, wiring that seems all there but nothing hooked up, no ignition switch (or left side cover it would be mounted in and an old coil that is probably bad.
The kickstarter does turn the motor with no problem though, and the internals all looked great.
I want to keep the electricals as simple as possible. Horn, headlight, taillight and nuetral indicator. I'm planning on just building a new harness.
I knew it would be some work, but I liked the looks of the bike, the body and frame looked good, and I wanted a good project to work on. Thank god I found you guys and this forum!
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:59 pm Post subject:
Hey dor, I owe you an apology. Went out in the garage and found that little piece you were talking about. It was on my bench right next to the cut piece of cable I'd tossed aside.
Also: I pulled the oil pump off the engine. Most that white stuff just scrubs right off, and underneath it doesn't look bad at all. Even better is the fact that the little part that gets spun by the engine actually turns pretty easily by hand. Is that a good sign that this thing might actually work? Any way I can test it by feeding water or more oil into it and spinning it with my drill?
Joined: Jan 12, 2008 Posts: 72 Location: Altamonte Springs Florida
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:02 pm Post subject:
Kirkin is right, that has an oil slinger on mainshaft which collects oil to feed big end.
If you run pre-mix, big eng will fail . there are modifications you can make to use premix but a full engine strip is required
Strip and clean pump, its probably just a face cam and plunger (haven't stripped a Suzuki two stroke pump for at least 25yrs)
Joined: Aug 26, 2007 Posts: 348 Location: Glidden Wisconsin
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:55 pm Post subject:
undertheradar wrote:
Hey dor, I owe you an apology. Went out in the garage and found that little piece you were talking about. It was on my bench right next to the cut piece of cable I'd tossed aside.
Also: I pulled the oil pump off the engine. Most that white stuff just scrubs right off, and underneath it doesn't look bad at all. Even better is the fact that the little part that gets spun by the engine actually turns pretty easily by hand. Is that a good sign that this thing might actually work? Any way I can test it by feeding water or more oil into it and spinning it with my drill?
I have the whole thing soaking to clean it up.
Very informative thread. I had thought pre-mix could be used by by passing the pump and thought about doing that on my TC250 when I was having pump issues. Glad I didn't. I have a new pump to put on when it warms up around here to take the place of the one I stripped out the bleeder hole on. (It's left hand thread on my bike). Don't know about yours though Radar. I think I mentioned on another thread that I sealed the bleeder screw with torch and thread lock but don't really trust it so I found an NOS one. When I was having trouble getting oil to the left cylinder, I took the pump off but left the oil pipes attached and did test it with a drill. The 2 ends that go to the cylinders were taken off as well if I remember correctly and finally got it so I could see oil pumping out both pipes. If memory serves me (which is sometimes foggy), my problem was the left check valve and I replaced those. Pump was fine and yes, the test worked for me. Good luck. Your's look altogether different than mine by the pics posted. Doug
PS: I meant to quote your asking about the drill test. Don't know why that part doesn't show up??
Joined: Oct 03, 2005 Posts: 1584 Location: Marshall, MI
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 6:59 am Post subject:
Left hand thread on TC250 oil pump. I need to remember that for my TC250. OK, go into memory banks----LH for TC250!! Come on brain. Seems like it is harder to compute over age 50. This IS a very informative thread. I wanted to stir it up and see if people did know that especially Suzuki put tube outlets right at crank bearing locations. Different bikes and models might be different. Check your local vintage jap enthusiast to make sure before trying to bypass the oil pump at home. _________________ You only go around once in life, but if you do it right, once is enough!
Joined: Aug 26, 2007 Posts: 348 Location: Glidden Wisconsin
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:48 am Post subject:
Steve, I trust you do know that the TC250 and T20 are the same engine?? Yes, left hand thread and the one that came on the bike was a slotted screw head (Many are hex screws). Hate to admit this but when trying to loosen in "counter clockwise" with my BIG flat screwdriver and it wouldn't budge, I turned to the trusy ol' vise grips! Yup, that took it out THE WRONG WAY though! Sheesh, should have gotten a clue when the screwdriver wouldn't do it. Anyway, NOWHERE in any of my books did I find it saying it was left hand so be aware for sure. Doug
Joined: Oct 03, 2005 Posts: 1584 Location: Marshall, MI
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:14 am Post subject: Don't Force
Doug, this is good stuff. Thanks! Everyone can learn from your mistake. When working on a motorcycle, most metal is aluminum so when a bolt or nut or something does not budge, look for other reasons and don't force beyond the capability of the metals. I have learned the hard way as well. _________________ You only go around once in life, but if you do it right, once is enough!
Joined: Dec 26, 2007 Posts: 1217 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:13 pm Post subject:
crazypj wrote:
Kirkin is right, that has an oil slinger on mainshaft which collects oil to feed big end.
If you run pre-mix, big eng will fail . there are modifications you can make to use premix but a full engine strip is required
Strip and clean pump, its probably just a face cam and plunger (haven't stripped a Suzuki two stroke pump for at least 25yrs)
PJ
There's another advantage to the oil pump that no one's seized on (pun intended). When you run premix, the oil is in the fuel. When you chop the throttle at high rpm, you cut off the fuel. Guess what else you cut off. These pumps were designed to deliver oil based on engine speed and load, so the engine will still be adequately lubricated under the above condition.
Joined: Jan 24, 2010 Posts: 54 Location: Long beach, CA
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:15 am Post subject:
Okay, more info that's making my head spin:
Quote:
Run premix, the injector was designed for 1960’s oil and is way too rich for today’s oil.
Quote:
any old bike i run premix and disable/remove the injector…except old nopeds, because i dont care.
even though they usually work, and will continue working, theres no reason to take a chance, and plus that way you get to mix to your own liking instead of running super rich.
Hell, even this thread seems to be pretty conflicted on whether this bike can run premix instead.
Joined: Jul 09, 2010 Posts: 12 Location: Indonesia
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:14 am Post subject:
I ride a Suzuki RC100 a small motorcycle. I bought this secondhand bike on a bad condition. I got a problem with its check valve which inject the oil through the crankshaft (CCI) was broken. I try to find it on Suzuki service centre but they cannot provide it anymore.
The other check valve which attached on its manifold is in good condition so that the engine get only single lubrication through the intake manifold. my question is..
1. Is that safe for the engine to get a single oil injection through single check valve?
2. What will happen if the engine only get a single oil injection from the check valve in the intake?
3. Should I deactive the oil pump and use a pre mix oil with the gas?
All times are GMT - 6 Hours Goto page Previous1, 2
Page 2 of 2
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You can attach files in this forum You can download files in this forum
There are no cables, no plug, no carb, wiring that seems all there but nothing hooked up, no ignition switch (or left side cover it would be mounted in and an old coil that is probably bad. 
