75 Suzuki GT250

twnhll · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:57 am Post subject: 75 Suzuki GT250

Let me start off by saying I'm not a mechanic.I just bought a GT250 and it has several issues.

1) Not getting a spark.

I took out the plug and with it connected to the ignition coil I kicked it and did not see a spark.I had the key in the middle position and an orange light would lit up only when I kicked it.The battery is dead.I tried with it jumpered to a riding mower.

2) Not getting oil to the left side

I kicked it 30 times to see if oil was moving from the oil injection system.I seen another post on this forum with troubleshooting ideas and will try that.

3) Diaphragm on petcock is torn where the bolts go through

I'm not sure if it is still functional as is.The diaphragm housing seems to cover the diaphragm so I am not sure if the rips at the bolt holes are an issue.

4) Are the carbs ok?

I took off the carbs to inspect them.The bowls were full of gas and I did not see any varnish type looking residue anywhere.They looked pretty clean inside

5) Inside of the gas tank has some rust spots

I'm not sure how to clean this out,any ideas?

I bought this bike to get me back and forth to college.Hopefully I can get her running in time for the spring semester.Money is real tight while I am going to school so I may be slow to post updates on the fixes.I also did a ghetto compression check with my thumb over the spark plug hole and it was enough to unseat my thumb from it,so I heard that should be sufficient to get her cranked over at least.Any ideas where I can get parts for this thing? I don't like to rely on Ebay because the part may not be on there by the time I get enough money to buy it.

Thanks in advance for any input.

05c50 · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:48 am Post subject:

Welcome to vjmog, twnhll. So we now know that you're not a mechanic, (most of the people here aren't) but I'm sure someone with some knowledge of your bike will be along to help soon. Sounds like a pretty long list of troubles, but if you take them 1 at a time, it shouldn't be so bad. After all, you know how to eat an elephant don't you? One bite at a time Laughing

Sorry, just my attempt at being funny. I don't know much about your bike, but someone on here does. Good luck.

.........Paul

Blue · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:14 pm Post subject: Maybe a little help !!

I guess since I'm no expert on your particular scoot, I'd do the stuff that I do with any bike I work on. I understand that money is tight, but sometimes there is no way to get around some things. The first thing I would do is replace the battery with a new one designed for your bike, if that is not in the budget, then do the second thing that I would do and that is go over all the wire connections carefully looking for corrosion, bad insulation, and other obvious concerns, this cost time only. If you have not put a new set of NGKs in, first chance, do so, but the battery is a major concern, jumping it off a lawn mower might work if the bike ran and you came out of the bar and found the key and lights on but that's about it. Are the plugs wet with fuel? if not , with new plugs and a tiny shot of ether and a good battery, will it cough or fire? Careful with that ether, it can and will hurt an engine. Give some of these things a try, and hopefully it will move you along a little.........Blue

twnhll · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:24 pm Post subject:

The plugs were wet when i initially kicked it over before I took it abart.Just not getting spark.The connections to the ignition coil are corroded and rusted.They look like they were not made to take off.Do I even need a battery to get a spark on the spark plug?

Blue · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:16 pm Post subject: not real sure!!

I honestly don't know if your bike has a magneto type ignition, if so then no battery needed, but since it has coils, in all likelyhood it needs a battery. If the connections are corroded then you need to do the best you can to clean them up as is. Is there a kill switch on the handlebar controls? If that has malfunctioned, its primary function is to ground the coils and kill the engine, also is there a condensor somewhere? those go bad, simple test for condensor is take it off, clip the pigtail on it to the + side of a good battery and the body of it to the - side for a minute, then unhook it carefully (as in don't touch the body and pigtail), then touch the pigtail to the body of the cond. a spark should zap across to the body, or you if you're not careful. You could disconnect the kill switch to see if it is interupting the circuit. Will your lawnmower fire the wet plugs? just a simple test for the plugs. I'm no expert on your bike, just thinking of "cheap" things to check, hoping one works out....Blue

MR.CHocko · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:55 pm Post subject:

First thing clean the corroded connectors on the coils that could be stopping you from getting spark. Next have you checked to see if your coils are good? The way to do that is to get a multi-meter and test them for resistance. They should be in a certain ohm range. I am not a expert on Suzuki two strokes, early 70's hondas are my speciality. I would go to the library and get Chilton's motorcycle repair, they will have the specfic ohm range. If it is not that then, check your points. It most likely is a electrical problem, which means you are going to need a wiring diagram.

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:51 pm Post subject:

GT250A (1976)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Diagrams/GT-250A.JPG

twnhll · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the tips fellas.I never thought about going to the library to see if they had a manual. THe wiring pdf is good to have.thanks again

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:08 pm Post subject:

Try used book stores in your area too.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=used+book+stores+charlotte+nc&aq=0&oq=Used+book+stores+Cha&aqi=g10

dorT500 · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:22 pm Post subject:

I am not sure if this applies to your coils...but I think so......Resistance between the positive and negative pirmary terminals should be for most Suzuki coils... approximately 2 ohms. Some coils less than 1. Resistance between either primary terminal and the secondary high voltage terminal should range from 5,ooo-11,000 ohms. I believe some machines can be twice that range. This info is out of a clymer manual and it not very specific on the coils. I am not very good when it comes to electrical anyway. Hopefully someone can clean this attempt up a little bit. Rolling Eyes

twnhll · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:52 am Post subject:

Here is a picture of it.

dorT500 · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:55 am Post subject:

NIce....solid looking bike. All the advice above from the members is good stuff. Looks like it deserves a proper new battery or at the least see if the old battery filled will take and hold a proper charge for an hour after you charge it. I would charge it on a 1.5 amp trickle charger for several hours. I would also suspect the battery pigtail/pull plug wiring. Wiggle it around a little as you check it out for continuity or power. New one at an auto-supply..around $3.00. Good Luck

H2Lou · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:30 pm Post subject:

sweet, sweet little bike...very nice find. Cool

twnhll · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:01 pm Post subject:

I inspected the wiring to the battery.The negative piece that connects to the main wiring harness is almost broke off.I doubt I can find a replacement for it and will have to fashion one myself.

twnhll · Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 1:38 pm Post subject:

SHe lives!!!!

I cleaned the connections on the ignition coil and put a drop of premix in each cylinder with the carbs,gas tank, and petcock off and she fired up!!!!! Very Happy

My concern is the oil injection.Upon further inspection I noticed that the left side was actually broke off at the banjo bolt.

What kind of possible damage am I looking at if the left side ran without oil?