Progress with TC250

AnKhe105 · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:24 pm Post subject: Progress with TC250

Finally warm enough here to try and get the TC250 to run today. Success!!! She runs but can't get the idle right yet even after following the how to book. Seems to be a lot more compression coming out the left side than the right. (I have the pipes off). Will have to get into the case eventually as the return kick spring must be broken or out of it's slot. OK, dumb questions here....When I split the cases, what should I be looking for and will I have to replace all the seals?? Bike says it has 6K on it. Also, one of the throttle valve adjusting rods pokes out the carb top as I turn the throttle but the other does not??? Don't seem right to me??
Any input appreciated
Thanks, Doug

MrRH67 · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:48 pm Post subject:

First why the need to split the cases? Second both carbs need to be set up the same, i do not know what you mean when you mention rod in the carb. but all adjustments, jets, needle and needle settings should be the same as the other carb. With 6k on the motor rings could be in order.

Russell · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:07 pm Post subject:

I've been trying to visualise all the carbs I tinkered with on my myriad of Suzuki 2 strokers and I can't recall anything that seems to fit your description 'adjusting rod'.Can you describe the part and its location in more detail?I'm wondering if you are describing the main jet needle and that it is lifted out of position and in some way jammed?So...I'm really curious to hear the answer to this one.

dorT500 · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:39 pm Post subject:

Sounds like the throttle stop rod...smells like it may be bent a little ... came up in another post ....believe there is a throttle stop screw at the top of the rod also..

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:26 am Post subject:

First off, the kicker does not return after I kick it over so I'm thinking the return spring must be broken, thus the need to split the cases.
DorT500's post is describing the "stop rod" which is what I'm talking about. It's not the jet needle. It comes up through the throttle valve adjusting screw on top of the carb. (screw has a spring on it). The rod has a small pin in the top so it doesn't fall down into the mixing chamber. The lower end of it has a spot in the throttle valve where it fits into. My book has it as #13296-11010 and under that number is <T20>. This is the same engine and trans as the T20.
Hope this clears it up a bit. Thanks, Doug

Also, It doesn't seem to have near as strong a spark on the right points as the left?? Points?? Coil??

KirkN · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:56 am Post subject:

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:10 am Post subject:

WOW! Really?? Thanks Kirk. I learned something new today, that's for sure. I never knew that but makes sense now. Doug

KirkN · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:53 am Post subject: Re: Progress with TC250

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:59 pm Post subject:

More good info Kirk. Didn't know that either. Pipes are back on but will be a problem with the air filter. I have the box but have been unable to locate the filter or the rubber boot yet. She ain't that pretty right now. Still in the wretched condition I bought it in. LOL! Needs a total makeover but has potential. Just wanted to see if it would even run before tearing it apart. Will work on getting some pics up. I'm not too handy with the computer. Thanks, Doug

KirkN · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:24 pm Post subject:

Gotcha!

Getting it to run in some semblance of order is, of course, first order of business. I misunderstood - I was thinking you were making final adjustments.

Rough adjustments - yeah, you do it in whatever condition you have - pipes on or off, intake system connected or not, etc. We're just getting it going at this stage, so you do what you can.

So, going back to one of your original questions - what do I HAVE to do when I split the cases?

Well, technically, all you HAVE to do is repair the kicker spring, cause as far as you know, that's the only thing that's broken. And, you'll need to replace a handfull of gaskets that will be rendered useless during the disassembly. But otherwise, everything is either condition-based, or convenience-based. That is, you measure it when you get in there and replace if it's out of specs. Or, you repair/refurbish/replace something just because you've come this far anyway, laborwise (motor out of frame, top end off, cases split, etc).

But, even then, those decisions will be tempered by your own circumstances - your wallet, your overall intentions for the bike, etc. That is, you're broke, and the piston is only a LITTLE out of spec, and yer not plannin' to race the thing, anyway, so you skip the oversize piston, bore, hone & new rings... Or, you're a by-God perfectionist, and we're going to do this ONCE and we're going to do it RIGHT and it's going to be done for the AGES... Very Happy

You get to decide! Very Happy

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:51 pm Post subject:

Yeah, not sure how far I'll take this project just yet. Not gonna be racing but I do like to do things right however my expertise and equipment is lacking in that regard. Probably close enough will be good enough. They're just fun to mess with and make them at least "look" like they used to and maybe run pretty well too. Many decisions to come.... Check your PM Kirk

dorT500 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:33 pm Post subject:

Before you take your cases apart to check the kickstarter problem...see if there is a stop bolt (should be a big head, not sure there is one on your bike) just rear of the clutch and near the end cap of the kickstarter shaft. If there is, maybe the previous owner unscrewed this bolt, not knowing what is was. If there is such a bolt, unscrewing it would cause the spring to unwind all it's tension...might..might be able to wind it back using the kickstarter lever with the bolt out ....then screwing it back in once the stop arm inside passes the bolt hole.....then release it and the bolt(if it exists) will then hold the new wound tension.....kinda complicated to explain how this may or may not work....when you get to the point you want to mess with it...keep this in mind and I will help if I can.

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:49 pm Post subject:

Thanks dor. Will check for that tomorrow. Wouldn't surprise me one bit as the front sprocket nut was missing which I didn't notice til I got it home. The guy I bought it from said not to try and ride it because the chain would come off. there was just a piece of wire twisted on to hold the sprocket on. I have the correct nut on it now but after I thought about it........wondered WHY that would even be missing unless someone had gotten into the tranny, saw a mess, and decided to get rid of it. Thankfully, since I've had it running, I went through the gears and it seems to shift just fine. Still can't for the life of me figure out why that would be missing???? Appreciate the tip, Doug

dorT500 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:55 pm Post subject:

You did get the washer with the nut and bent it down to the flats on the new nut, Right?

AnKhe105 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:00 pm Post subject:

MMMM....yes and no. Came with 3 washers. One was obviously not for my bike. Wasn't sure where the other 2 were to go other than under the nut which is where I put them. One must be for the outer "bend" although my parts book doesn't show it that way. Will do that tomorrow also...can't hurt and will keep the nut on snugly. Don't know what I'd do without you guys. Thanks again.